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Chevrolet G Series Van (G30) Questions

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It worked when I first got the van a few months ago, and just quit. The rear blower still works, and I can still feel heat coming out of the vents, but I can't turn the blower on. I have checked the fuse, can't find a relay, and know nothing about the rest. What can I do
Where is the oxygen sensor located?
Even when two mechanics put on a new belt, with one using all power to apply max tension on the belt, while the other mechanic tightens bolts: it still loosens & comes off before a 500 miles. Have owned the van since 1994 - when it was brand new. Have gone thru a minimum of a alternator dozen belts and at least 4 of the other 2 belts.
I need to know what transmission is used in my 1987 van

What seems to make the problem better or worse? Looking to upgrade frame/chasis
I have a 1995 Chevrolet G30 sportvan with a rear AC unit the pipes and the condensing unit for the rear AC are blowing cold the blower motor seems to work just fine it spins the blowers.

However all of the air is blowing underneath the blower rather than through the vents..

I'm not sure how to resolve the issue I've taken it as far as I can.
have replaced the oil seals in transmission and got a new transmission and still the bus won't shift into other gears the reverse won't work, when hit the gas pedal won't go, hear it working but not moving; i have a bluebird bus not a g series van but there was no option for bluebird
My 1996 G30 Van wont start i charged the battery and still nothing. When i turn the key to start i get nothing. No sounds of trying to start need help asap.
Brakes getting stuck. Caliper stuck., drive 55mph right front feels like a flat tire a lot of bounce?
Popping blower motor fuse. Removed wires on blower motor resistor, blower motor,and relay and still pops fuse when you turn the vent control to on.
okay I will try and explain best I can; first It started with a spark knock. I came to that conclusion cause it only knocks while driving past 50 mph.
So, I changed:
fuel filter
knock sensor
flushed combustion chamber
changed egr valve
map sensor
idle control valve
throttle position sensor
spark plugs
spark plug wires
O2 sensor
vacumm hoses

I still get spark knock, but at this moment my concern is the shut off. It turns over and starts fine and idles great, with van in park very slight pressure on the gas pedal van stalls and wants to cut off. With van in drive and foot on the brake and very slight pressure on gas pedal van cuts off. If I press full on the pedal in drive and foot on the brake van runs and I still get spark knock if I push on the pedal farther down.

So, the only thing I can think of being the problem is fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. I'm not in the mood for changing that **** in less I could truly be the problem and I'm forced too.

I am getting no trouble codes with the tester I have OBD1 Bosch scanner.

Any insight on the matter will be helpful
thanks!
There is a tick/click noise like a mechanism isn't engaging; coolant is overflowing into the cab thru the floor. It overheats after 10-15 min at idle. I believe it may be a heater line blockage or a radiator blockage, just not sure where to start looking. The radiator hose coming off radiator is pressurized after motor has been turned off also. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. T
The trans also winds out changing from 1st to 2nd and doesn't cut off on me all the time. Has low power going uphill also. Thank you!
Everything works except speedometer
The high side has access and the dryer filter I'll need to get an conversation kit the compressor cuts in and out I need to charge system just purchased this van few weeks ago thanks!
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