Chevrolet Camaro Questions

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It has a oil leak at the rear of the motor.The valve cover gaskets are good,Im pretty sure the intake manifold is leaking at the block,but it is hard to see.I removed the intake and resealed it,the block to intake doesnt have a seal according to the dealer they said to just put a 3/16 bead of a silicone at this area wich i did, but the leak is still there/Also the intake manifold rests to low.The intake has half of the valve cover surface area attached to it,the head has the other half of the surface area.The intake half of the valve cover seal area rests 1/8 of an inch lower than the head valve cover seal area,the valve cover gaskets sealed despite of this but i thought this may be causing a problem with block to intake seal.Is there anyone who knows about this problem. Having alot of trouble.

I have a oil leak where the lower intake meets the block at rear of motor. I got a seal kit from the dealer but it doesnt include a gasket between the block and motor. The dealer said to put a 3/16 bead of silicone at that area but it didnt stop the leak,is there anywhere i can get this seal or any ideas on what i can do to stop the leak?

I read on this site that this year of camaro with 3.4 liter motor has trouble with extension housing seal leaks. does anyone no what extension housing seals are? the motor has a oil leak at the rear in the center at top i cant find.I could see some kind of cover over a hole at rear that might be a option if the motor had a distributor but i cant see the whole thing.

replaced pump but it still seems wrong i have 45 pounds of pressure at the fuel rail please explain the regulator and how to test it

the light has been on for about 2 weeks now.

had oil changed less than 2 weeks ago, radiator keeps leaking water out and now oil smells like gasoline what is going on??

Recently i gave my car to the valet in N.Y. and when i picked it up the security light on the dash was on , now it stays on no matter what i do .Cant seem to shut it off . whats up? what did he do?? and how to i shut it off...btw car starts and runs fine

front components and cover must be removed. drop exhaust, starter, raise the engine three inches and drop the pan. need gaskets, seal, pump kit, pickup tube and screen, oil, filter and antifreeze. estimate seems way off. depending on mileage, add timing gears and chain, tensioners, water pump, belt, spark plugs, and a new starter. how do you arrive at the estimate?

what looks like a low fluid level light in upper left of dash always seems to come on when the car is warmed up ..but my fluid levels all seem to be fine ..whats up with that??? thanks

i have about 150,000 miles and the car seems to be losing its power .Im hoping with a complete tune up my baby will be on fire again!! thank you ! rob

we tried a yellow wire but it kept blowing a fuse

abs light has been on for approximately 3 months.

Since 2008 of May I have had a persistent check engine light come ON then OFF only after the problem was thought to have been fixed by the Chevy dealer. Light would stay OFF for weeks or months with no engine light when car codes have been diagnosed and components replaced, only for the light to reappear again. This has stumped this Chevrolet dealership service dept. in Acton, MA. for the last 1 1/2 years with my 1998 Camaro Z28 5.7L with 150,000 miles but running good 20/21 mpg 50/50 city/highway on average. In the last 1 1/2 years I have replaced the left side cats twice, aftermarket cats by Custom Exhausts in Reading, and went thru 6 O2 new GM sensors, 2 new GM air pumps, and still my engine light remains on (not blinking), this after 3 complete diagnostic scans by dealer with valid codes worked on by dealer too. Unrelated back in 1998-1999 under the mfr. warranty, I’ve had 2 fuel pumps in tank replaced along with a bad Map Sensor, and did not have an engine light come on until recently in 2008. I recently tried going back to 93 Octane after 10 years of using 87 Octane with no luck in turning off this persistent engine light that currently remains on. After 2 tanks of 93 and no success with it turning light off, I went back to 87. I get no Knocking with any octane. Dealer says to just keep chasing down the codes until it’s finally fixed but this car is nickel and diming me to bankruptcy. Massachusetts has very strict annual car inspections. It’s a shame a simple engine light can do in a great car that goes thru regular routine maintainence. In self-diagnostic road tests recently I notice all the time now that when I accelerate hard the transmission stumbles as if the air pump has gone faulty again. The automatic transmission runs great and normal around town but seems it can’t get into high gear and stumbles and hesitates and is not smooth on hard acceleration only from 0 - 100, but the transmission will behave normally smooth when accelerating easily 0 - 100 mph. All fluids are up to level. Tranny fluids were replenished at 60,000. All 150,000 miles have seen only easy driving. With normal driving both city and highway the car runs great all around but with an engine light on. The general engine scans codes point back to the cat. If this is so, why did I run with no light for 7 months on this replaced cat. How can a cat be so out of spec that it plays havoc on the O2 sensors? New O2 sensors are also giving codes of low voltage too. If I replace the Cat with a G.M. replacement it will be a costly mistake if the engine light remains on and I've learned that GM does not make cats for this car anymore, so is there a way to bypass the cat or o2 sensors on diagnostic scans? some say I may have destroyed the knock sensors by using 87 octane since 1998. I do not hear any knocking noise. Can a pin hole leak in the Y pipe be welded closed too?

There is no power to the interior cab of my 1989 Camaro RS 2.8 L V6. No lights, radio, etc. Completely no power. What can cause this to happen. Found a cut wire at the stater and connected it back together, still no power. Could it have blown anything else?

i just replaced the optispark,wires and plugs twice

When my car was in the shop to have the cat replaced they recommended the rear seal be replaced.

i ued a test light to check the connector and still no power, any suggestions?

i ued a test light to check the connector and still no power, any suggestions?

i ued a test light to check the connector and still no power, any suggestions?

i ued a test light to check the connector and still no power, any suggestions?

i ued a test light to check the connector and still no power, any suggestions?

Trying to find disc brakes from used camaro to fit my 1967 camaro.

it was backed into and now it wont start and it doest have a fuel system reset button what can i do to make her run again

He is charging me $900 for labor, $850 in parts and $500 to take the more to a machine shop for additional machine work.
This seems like too much money. Just a few months ago, he did the top part of the motor, so now, he is just doing the bottom part of the motor. Please help

will it fit properly & if so how hard is it to swap them over

I cannot get the seat latch to release for access to the back seat. No letters on this problem have been received, yet I hear it is a common problem with either one of the seats locking up and unable to release! "Cascade Chevrolet" here in Wenatchee, WA. has been researching this since this past Tuesday, with no answers. What's the deal here?

when im driving the rear end has a loud roaring noise in drive and reverse the sound stops when im going to the right and when i drive straight its a constant roaring

i was driving my 92 rs camaro i pushed the clutch to downshift heard a pop and the clutch went to the floor, i thought slave cylinder but when i put a new one on it the clutch would not pressure up? i need help did i get the wrong part or is it something else, the one i took off was plastic and was broke at the bolt holes the new one o reilys gave me was different it was metal and just a rod and boot. and this is not the tranny from factory it has a 6 speed in it?

ok I have put on a new water pump,180degree thermastat,upper and lower hose's. But with all that I can drive it around and its fine as soon as I let it sit an run it will over heat.The coolant light stays on now,when the engine is cold can open the radiator cap and the radiator looks full,when i start it and let it run for a awhile to get the thermostat to open it will start getting hot and blowing water out of the radiator.(I'M NOT SURE WHAT TO DO)

I replaced the water pump,thermostat,upper and lower radiator hoses but the water lite is always on.i cant seem to get enough water in the engine.(help)