Chevrolet 1500 Pickup Questions

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When check engine light is on
it won't start tap on the brain and sometimes you can get the light to go out then you can start it but then you give it gas it Bogs down and won't shift right
Have an exhaust leak that seems to happen when bolts loosen . Need to know where rear drive shaft bolts are located
Flexplate is out of vehicle.
Could it be a freez plug leaking
Truck will not shift fro 2nd gear to 3rd gear.
The truck has set for 7 years. I have changed: plugs and plug wires, rotar and distributor cap, sensor on throttle body, and of course all of my fluids.
I replaced master cylinder. still no pressure. tried to bleed brakes with no fluid coming out. I am at a loss of what to try now
Just started missing all at once
Was told starter was bad and needed replaced even when it starts it starts the truck. Could this be the problem?
replaced engine with slightly used rebuilt motor from a junk yard.they told me it ran when they got it. so iput it in my truck .useing my distrubitor coil pack tbi carb. i've checked timing gets fuel and spark.only back fires i've retimed it several times yesterday 4/23 /17 i sprayed starter fuild in the carb went to start it and it backed fired but it blew my valvue covers off
I have a 1990 Chevy Cheyenne 1500 heavy half ton with a 3.4l v6 and a granny 4 speed transmission. I want to drop a 70's 350 in it. The transmission and everything else bolts up except I need different motor mounts. Is there a conversion motor mount I can buy or is this something that needs to be fabricated
It shifts into 1 and 2 but won't go in 3 just free balls and it just started change filter fluid and still won't shift
Sorry for the novel, I'm just pulling hair out now (and I'm bald!)
1993 Chevy c1500 pickup, 4.3L, 6 cyl, Cheyenne package with W/T, 460L tranny, about 316,000 miles on original engine.

Already done:
Transmission – new – 15 mos ago
Battery and cables – new - 7 mos ago (self)
Starter/alternator – new - 9/10 mos ago (self)
Exhaust system – new - 15 mos ago (rust issue with manifold now, will replace)
Fuel system (pump, filter, lines – front to pump) - new – 9 mos ago
Major tune up – 6 mos ago
TPS – new - 8 mos ago (self)

Map Sensor -new
CTS –new
PCV valve – new
Air filter – new
IAC with gasket – new
TBI rebuild and new gasket - (re-used old spring and cup)
EGR valve and gasket - new
EGR solenoid –new
CTS – new
Air filter – new
Vacuum lines – new or replaced in last 3 mos
NO leaks anywhere from repairs (very small coolant leak)

Truck starts right up, but only at a super low idle for about 4-5 secs, then kicks up to a normal idle. Drives perfect with quicker response than before – but only if slow acceleration (bogs if laying on pedal) - until braking or slowing down, then stalls out and dies completely. O2 sensor not swapped out yet because passenger side manifold needs replaced and y-pipe disconnected from manifold on that side. Vacuum lines are either good or new.
EGR was so clogged, it was SOLID in the tube and PCV flow through tube on the driver’s side had to be dug out and then cleaned. I know, I know…
NOW, after replacing and cleaning all of those items, there’s a NEW issue – an exhaust smell in the cab!

It runs great when fixed properly and ran steady (even with what needed to be replaced) up to this point.

What’s even left after this point?
The PCM? Maybe a bad ground or connector somewhere? The O2 sensor?

Running rich problem is fixed; no fuel smell in exhaust; injector spray pattern looks right, but won’t hold steady; truck started to choke and “suck” air and fuel for a couple of days –fixed. The truck used to “whistle” while “sucking fuel from the TBI – fixed. What will make keep making it stalling and dying out now? Other than the O2, I'm at a loss
Truck cranks but doesn't start it will run long as you pour fuel in intake has right fuel pressure and it's getting fire I'm lost maybe anti lock system (bypass) i seapped a 98 1500 to a 95 1500 vortec all wires or hooked up and changed harness don't understand please help
Can you pls help
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