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I hear a click sound under the hood
A light comes on says low trac
I have a 1996 G10 van with a 5.0 engine. Currently, the van idles rough; it seems more evident when warm. I would not say that it is idling erratically, but rather is a little loud and shaky. There is no check engine light on, and recent work includes PCM replaced, replaced catalytic converter, replaced intake manifold gaskets, air and fuel filters replaced, spark plugs, wires, and distributor cap replaced, MAF sensor replaced, and throttle body and EGR valve cleaned.

I took it to a mechanic (to resolve more severe driveability issues) and he said that the fuel volume was erratic when the van was warm, but the pressure was fine. He suggested I needed a new fuel pump and filter.

I took it to another mechanic, and actually figured out that the earlier issues were (somehow) the result of a loose battery cable. However, the van still idles rough. Thus my question is as follows:

What else could cause the fuel volume to "all-over the place" as opposed to the fuel pump itself? The reason I ask is that the van does not appear to exhibit the "typical" symptoms I associate with a faulty fuel pump. That is, after fixing the battery cable, it does not have trouble starting and does not hesitate notably under acceleration. Like I said, the van's most evident fault now is a rough idle, and I would presume it would need less fuel at this point. I suppose this could mean that it is receiving too much fuel, but I thought such might be more likely the result of a faulty sensor than the fuel pump itself.

Thanks for any help.

Please forgive a seemingly stupid question. I am a grandmother and not mechanically inclined. My truck would not start when it is high humidity. It turns over but won't catch and when I turn off the key almost starts an then shudders with a loud clang in the motor. A retired mechanic told me a few years ago it was a module that needed replacing. I picked it up and took it to a friend to be installed. He did not believe that the module was a problem and showed me he had loosely installed it but left the old one hanging ( Between the carb and the firewall) so I could return the new part if it made no difference. It worked like a charm until a few years later when they both fell off. I want to pick up a new module but can't remember what it was called. Does anyone know what that module is?
Ive got a new rebuilt motor 4.3-v6 that has coolant leaking into the #4 cylinder causing it to mis.
Air conditioner is working. But the middle and left and right vents are not blowing. The floor vent do work
i have a 2000 chevy van carry all seris when i turn it over it sputters but wont stay started
After replacing my fuel pump twice, had problems with losing power after car heated up. Replaced MAF sensor. Next day car fails after engine has heated up again after leaving it set for 15 minutes was finally able to crank it and get it running. Drove it some more no problem. Then Sunday night it would not crank and it was smoking from the front of the engine. I'm thinking starter or solenoid. Anybody got any ideas?
I have a 2005 Chevy Colorado with a 2.8 liter engine. does it have a timing belt or chain, and at what mileage should it be replaced?
The battery has been on a charger and it shows the battery is charged but still does not turn over.
The car rwill not come
Out of park, engine off mor on
2008 ss impala wife got in this morning turn key nothing no power now key won't turn all the way off or come out dose not have any lights dome dash nothing hooked up battery charger to battery 2 amp slow charge the starter turn on a little so no charge battery good on hooked cables and cleaned terminals still nothing remotes wont do nothing thank you hope you can help scott from mi
There is no sound. There no air, hot or cold. Nothing is blowing out as if i did not even turn it on. It worked earlier this morning got back in the car about an hour later and just nothing.
I have changed the thermostat. Changed the coolant temperature sensor and the harmonic balancer . I have also opened up the pressure release valve on the intake hose for the radiator hose a bunch of air came out but that did not ease the problem. I drove it for maybe a 1/2 mile and he gauge started rising and went past the red zone. My hot coolant temp light came on. Im not sure what would cause this but i know the cooling system isnt working like it should. any suggestions?
It's the blower that will only work on the high position, cause even with the blower not running in the lower positions you can still feel heat or air coming out of the vents.
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