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Buick Skylark Questions

Get answers to questions about your Buick Skylark at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

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190
questions

I have replaced the batteries, and I do not have the door key, only ignition key.

I love this car, it drives great and is decent at the pump, but there are some problems. When it rains water leaks in and pools on the driver side floor, none of the windows roll down, and now a mechanic says we need to replace the AC Compressor. I inherited this car from my father and he says that he's not willing to pay the $600 to fix the AC Compressor because of all the problems he fixed before I owned the car, plus the leak means that the problem could arise again. Does anyone know how to fix that leak, the windows and could I fix that compressor myself?

One of them told me that if I didn't my serpentine belt will come off and the vehicle wouldn't run at all. His price to replace it is $600. The other told me that I can still drive it & just replace it when the belt comes off? His price for labor is $50. I don't believe anything that either of them say. I have called various auto parts stores in my area and nearly all of them tell me that I must replace the compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube in order for the compressor to be warrantied. I've also called several salvage yards regarding these parts.

I have several questions:
Is it necessary to replace all three parts?
Is it ok to buy the parts used or will this eventually lead me to replacing them again?
Can this car be driven to the shop or should it be towed?
Roughly how long does it take to make this type of repair?
Roughly how much should I expect to pay for labor for this type of job?

One of them told me that if I didn't my serpentine belt will come off and the vehicle wouldn't run at all. His price to replace it is $600. The other told me that I can still drive it & just replace it when the belt comes off? His price for labor is $50. I don't believe anything that either of them say. I have called various auto parts stores in my area and nearly all of them tell me that I must replace the compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube in order for the compressor to be warrantied. I've also called several salvage yards regarding these parts.

I have several questions:
Is it necessary to replace all three parts?
Is it ok to buy the parts used or will this eventually lead me to replacing them again?
Can this car be driven to the shop or should it be towed?
Roughly how long does it take to make this type of repair?
Roughly how much should I expect to pay for labor for this type of job?


Air blow hot when i turn on the ac

air bag light with seat belt lights flickering and sometimes stays

how can i bypass the anti thief system ?

Just replaced transmission and alternator

price. however, I dont know how to take it out or install it. Any tips?

My car overheats going even a short distance. I also have water on the floor on the drivers side which has gotten worse! Could this be from my water pump?Thermostat, water pump? Head gasket? I had the radiator flushed but didn't take care of the problem

Check engine light is on.

it is actually a 87 skylark. was running ok really hard to start but ran fine. now all of a sudden it just cranks over and wont fire but when I let off the key it back fires really loud. All parts I have replaced since I bought it is fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and o2 sensor. it is spraying fuel like it should just doesn't want to start. any help asap would be greatly appreciated need to have it running by sunday, 2/2/14 if possible. thank you.

A mechanic told me that he would have to take my radiator out of my vehicle in order to find a replacement? I have previously bought used parts for my vehicle at the junk yard & was always given a list of vehicles with parts that were interchangeable with mine. Is it possible that the mechanic is going to trade my radiator in for cash or possibly bring it back to me & reinstalling it back into my vehicle? I've had this to happen to me before.

Anti-freeze had leaked onto the ground & then shortly afterwards the car started running hot. The mechanic said that a nut/bolt that holds the compressor & AC intact has worked its way loose & now is lodged into my radiator.

Does this sound right? This summer I had a mechanic to recharge my AC System & could something that he did or failed to do have caused this problem?

Thanks

already know where the pin hole leak is just need to know how to remove and replace the hose

I was at a red light when my car shut off n wouldn't start. After we checked the battery and oil, all of the water out of the coolant reservoir poured out onto the ground. We filled it back up, and a few days later I'm at the store and it all pours out again.

1995 Buick (skylark 2.3L) 4 Quad 16V DOHC .

if i turn it off and go shopping and come back to leave it will not start again i have to wait and start cranking it and wait a few minutes and cranking it again until it starts up

runs fine awhile then it just stalls have to let it set about 15 minutes then it will run fine for a few then stall again

My car keeps stalling randomly, and actually accelerates by idling by itself. My mechanic said it could be tied into the ABS module, so I'm looking to order the part. Problem is I need to know the computer module number to do that. Thanks!

wires on brake look good same with wires on shifter,key is froozen moves but not out of locking position

I HAD A USE IGNITION COIL AND MODULE ON THERE FOR TWO YEARS NOW IS THAT THE PROBLEM ???

she just bought the this was the first time she tried to use it

I cannot get to the pully. Things are too close together. There must be a way!

NOTE: updated from prior post, original submission used "lock" up in the question, meant "light" up. All other dash lights work fine. On the shift indicator, neither the "pointer" nor the "letters" light up, i.e. when in drive, it does lock in the drive position, but neither the pointer nor the "D" light up. Same with all other positions.

All other dash lights work fine. On the shift indicator, neither the "pointer" nor the "letters" light up, i.e. when in drive, it does lock in the drive position, but neither the pointer nor the "D" light up. Same with all other positions.

stays lit when the trunk is closed. we closed the car doors, waiting for the dome lights to go out, then put a camera in the trunk on 10 second delay/no flash. the light was still on???

theft service stays lit up on the dash, everything seems to be fine but the starter won't turn over

My car runs fine until it reaches operating temperature, then it quits running. I need to find out how get in there and see if the computer bad. It also has no spark after it stops, 10 to 15 minutes later it works again. Would this be caused by damage in circuits or motherboard?

The price for the alternator and a ballpark figure for labor.