Close

Audi A4 Quattro Questions

Get answers to your auto repair and car questions. Ask a mechanic for help and get back on the road.

Find questions for your car.
467
questions
completely bent in the front control arms upper and lower probably screwed up the axle torque to the sway bar and links was going to buy a whole new kit for All 4 anyway and suspension seem to be acting up in the rear as well so just wanted to estimate and an idea as to what it would cost to replace if I purchased one of those all in kits off Amazon car is located in Bellevue WA seems to have some how lost reverse gear too.
It has a cracked coolant reservoir tank that I tried patching up my self with no success and can't find where it leaks coolant from
Bought a car that had been run over a parking concrete barrier. It sheared the lower oil pan and broke the upper one. I replaced all of the parts that were broken and the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump and the original fuel filter (137K long overdue) The car will run if supplied fuel into the intake but no fuel comes out of the fuel rail. Is there a shut off I am missing somewhere or should I move forward with blowing out the fuel line as a next step? All of the fuses appear fine. The car sat for over a year after being wrecked. It shows no codes on the dash when I try to start it.
My car has the check engine light on and so I scanned the car and got back a p0118 error code. I noticed you guys have a page about it and that a misdiagnosis can be bad coolant. my car often starts cold rough and runs the fan when still cold but then it turns off and wont really turn on once the car is warm even if I turn it off and back on. the check engine light pretty much stays on all the time. my temp gauge sits in the middle like it should and doesn't waver. I was wondering if these symptoms are more likely the coolant or the sensor or if there is no way to tell. also there seems to be two different coolant temp sensors mentioned on the internet, one that costs $80 and is a total pain to replace or a $20 part that you can replace without any real tools. Is it worth changing the coolent myself before getting the more expensive part changed since they will have to swap coolant anyway?
2009 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0L TFSI

Had oil leak from rear main seal area and CEL lights on. Diag codes pointed me to replacing the PCV valve and I also replaced all 4 coils andspark plugs, air filter and cleaned mass air flow sensor. Also changed oil and oil filter. Since replacing PCV valve the oil leak appears to have stopped with a few days of the oil that had turbo blowby finally draining out.

Diag codes had dropped from 22 to just 4 codes left. P1287 (too lean / vacuum leak) and P0300-0303 misfires on all 4 cylinders. The car was running fine but a but rough at idle. Attributed to too lean mixture. Reset systems with battery unhook and touching positive to ground and then after hooking back up did a throttle alignment. CEL was still on but car drove fine, no rough idle, perfectly normal driving. Would even say it was driving as well as day 1 with turbo power and smoothness. No noticeable misfires. Just the CEL with P2187 and the 300-303 misfires still lit up. Over past week the following codes have crept into the equation. 

P2279
P2187
P0299
P12A2
P0300-0303

So now I've got codes regarding fuel press or sensor, air intake leak, vacuum leaks, and cylinder misfires.

Now if I clear the CEL. The car runs rough at idle, in park, drive, whatever.. at idle it's rough and misfiring like it wants to stall. When the CEL comes back on after a short amount of time the car returns to driving normally. So I feel like the ECU must be compensating for something and normalizing the car properly. At this point I'm stuck on what to do next. Should I change the fuel pressure sensor? Smoke thevacuum hoses? Or just continue to drive it as is with CEL on for next year and a half until I get the amount owned left on the finance of the vehicle to get rid of it without getting killed financially. I have a mechanic friend who is helping me out with troubleshooting and I cannot afford to take this to a dealership for repair, but I feel like we are close to getting this squared away and just need to either fix a hose or replace a sensor and we will be home. Any thoughts or opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Car stalled out and electronic malfunction light came on
Fault code P0420 is common in Audi's. And it refers to an inefficient catalytic converter. However, I have found that the fix for this fault code is seldom the catalyst itself but rather replacing the oxygen sensor.
I was hoping that someone could expand a bit on what they have read or seen in their experiences with Audi's? Thank you all and have a great day.
Back up. And now if my heat is on and I get hot so I'll turn it off and if turn on again won't come back in right away
Get an estimate and never overpay again
RepairPal guarantees your repair will be done right.