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i have purchased a new ignition cylinder and replaced it. - it still does the same thing. the new key and cylinder are somewhat loosely turning inside there. there is no tension or spring action returning the key when you turn it all the way to engage starter. how can I start my car?? im stranded!!
one person told me that it could be the fly wheel and one person said it could be heat shield..
my ford van when driving down the road at high way speed,it will jerk in and out like its cutting out,it doesnt do it steady just every few minutes it will act up,then go back to running perfect,and when idling you can feel it kinda cutting out,feels like it quits getting gas for a second,or aint getting enough. fuel pump is working fine you can hear it.when you turn ignition on or if you crawl underneath. could it be fuel filter partially plugged,just bought van few days ago,runs and shifts great except for this issue,motor is the 5.8 thanks
FAILED SMOG. TOOK IT TO SHOP. GUY SAID HE REPLACED THE THERMOSTAT AND TWO SENSORS. WHEN I PICKED IT UP THE ENGINE LIGHT WAS OFF BUT BLUE COOLANT LIGHT STILL ON. NEXT DAY GOT A SMOG IT PASSED. THEN THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME BACK ON. WHAT COULD BE WRONG?
car is in great shape, original owner, not sure if it is a shork or strut problem, or normal
could a impulse sensor have something to do with it
I need to see a manual on engine relays and the fusses it cranks but won't start.
i have replace the temp sensor and the fan relay but still the fan doesnt come on
ALL MY OTHER INTERIOR LIGHTS WORK AS WELL AS MY TRUNK LIGHT, IT HAS A NEW BULB IN THE DOME LIGHT JUST WONDERING WHERE THE FUSE IS?
The needle on my RPM gauge bounces up and down and my engine "studders" as my car is decelerating from higher speeds. I pull over and turn off the engine for a just few minutes, and it starts up nicely and runs smoothly, no problems at all (as long as I don't go over 60 mph). It sounds crazy, but I swear that on rainy days or when humidity is higher I can only get to 50 mph before it acts up. No check engine light ever comes on when this problem arises. I've had 4 oxygen sensors and spark plugs replaced so far. I have 105,000 miles.
Problem occurs whenever speeds exceed 15-20 mph. It started originally only occuring at highway speeds.
I got this car and got it smogged on Saturday, but on Sunday afternoon my check engine light came on. I took it to a shop and they ran a diagnostic and told me I had a bad EGR system. However with a bit of research it doesn't seem possible to pass smog with a bad EGR valve. Maybe it's just dirty or maybe it's something else? It starts up a little rough but idles and drives well, but I did notice a lack of power at low speeds on a cold engine on Monday.
How much time should this take and how much should it cost
I also have a slight transmission leak. Could this just be a lose transmission pan?
With headlights off, eurovan temp gauge gets a false overtemp.
turn headlights on, while rotating dimmer wheel down then up, tachometer operation is directly affected. (dimmer wheel down,tach. works, dimmer wheel up,tach. does not works).
Also dimmer wheel down,get a false overtemp with red blinking overtemp light,dimmer wheel up,temp. gauge creeps back to normal range but tach. drops to zero. correlation of tach. movement is directly affected by dimmer wheel movement.
also, when headlights are on, there is dash area illumination except for all instrument cluster gauges.
I have so far replaced temp sensor, inoperative horns, contact cleaned all fuse/relay plugs. Help please.