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the dioagnostics code reads P0340 and P0430.. so what should i do first and look for? everything looks brand new on this car... i just bought it but the ckeck engine light wont go out...the car passedd emmisions but the light wont go out..even f i reset it..
The clutch was replaced 30000 miles ago, it was driving perfect then i went to go drive it today and it wont go into any of the gears, i was going to replace the clutch slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder, and the clutch hydraulic hose first, could that fix the issue, or has my clutch gone out again?
The buckle has a label that has instructed me to replace the buckle. Is this necessary for the buckle to function properly?
the light is on but not flashing
Step on gas peddle it will run fine for a while the the studdering begins.
all of a sudden, the car started overheating, the windshield wipers and turn signals would not work, nor would the heat blow out hot air. Also, the manual did not specify which fuse is connected with these problems. what can cause this problem all at once?
Don't know how much more to add other than what was told, its' an electrical problem. Work has been done, but the car hasn't been driven as of yet.
I know I have a cracked cv boot on the right front side. I have not repaired it and now I am noticing a shaking problem upon applying the brakes.
Feels like it's coming from the front and I can feel the shaking on the brake pedal to some degree. Can anyone tell me what the cause may be?
Tends to happen more when colder and also after running on interstate at 70 mph after 25-50 miles. There is valve train noise especially when cold, but also when hot during acceleration. 151K miles and valves never adjusted. Sometimes turning off and restarting will correct the rough engine but the check engine light will stay on.
I just had a flat. I put my spear tire on. Now my tire traction is blinking. Also my abs and brake light won't go off.
My car wont pull off after waiting on stop lights,and the speedometer will just stop working. if I turn the car off and back on it will work just fine.Is this because the speed senors needs to be replaced?
When I start the car and begin to accelerate, the engine (maybe) has a loud rattle noise like it is "trying" to work. Once it gets to third gear, the noise goes away. This only happens on a cold start, not when I am stopped at a traffic light or such. I have had it to two different Acura dealerships and have had $3K repairs done but the noise is still there. If I take it to other shops, nothing comes up on the diagnostic test. It sounds horrible and is embarrassing. This started at around 69K miles. PLEASE HELP! I do not want to be screwed out of more $$$ by Acura!
A few months ago the ICM fixed the problem. This time we replaced the more expensive ICU (black box) and the problem still exists. It will start OK for a while then after sitting for a few hours turns over OK but will not start. The next day it usually starts OK. The mechanics that tried it fix it believe it is not getting fire when it won't start. Maybe the Volvo dealer can detect the problem with Volvo specific testers?
Replaced Ignition Control Unit and the Ignition Control Module and the problem still exists. The ICM fixed it for a few months. Now It will run fine for a day or two then after being parked for a few hours won't start. Quite often it will start the next day and then run fine for a while. Two different mechanics have attempted to fix it but the problem is sporadic. The mechanics think it is not getting fire.
The battery is charged starter is ok wont crank at all but when the #32 centeral electrical fuse pulled it will now crank but still won't start.