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looking to purchase a used car and just want to get an idea

my wipers only work on full speed and do not stop in the proper location?

where is it located, how do i remeove it from my
2012 ML350 V-6 4-matic (gas)

It also lights up the milage

o/d blows fuse,kept driving it...then truck reversed,went into drive,and shifted out of gear now no reverse,trk takes off at 30-40 mph just shifts out of gear stop and it will go again up to 30/40 mph??

We have been told it is the 4 wheel drive modgel that needs to be replaced? Battery is fine. Why would the 4 wheel drive model effect starting. We were able to jump for a while but now it will not start at all.
It feels like the it is stuck in park.

My battery was dead so i ha it charged so when i put the cables on i could here here everything clicking , all of the dash lights were on but i did not have the key in the ignition . when i put the key in that spring feeling was not there so i think its my ignition switch .

Here are the tire specs: Continental ContiProContact (Grand Touring All-Season)
Size: 245/40R18
LRR: Low Rolling Resistance
Sidewall Style: Blackwall
Serv. Desc: 93V
UTQG: 400 AA A

I check and adjust the tire pressure monthly as needed to factory specifications 31 psi front, 35 psi rear. New tires bought at 42,710 miles, (3rd set, I believe, as car was pre-owned). Car now has about 54,250 miles on it and front tires look like they will be down to tread wear indicators in about 6 months. No leaks from front thrust link bushings. Could be a couple of bent rims or alignment issue? Tread wear appears to be even.

radiator blew out upper right side need to replace where to get new radiator

I got all fluids changed at 30,000 mi. now the trans doesn't kick down fast enough. When I stop then start the trans isn't in 1st gear.

6 cyl, two wheel drive, positive traction. I have owned it from the beginning. This Blazer has been garage kept.

Here is the problem. In this past year, there are many times that the breaking behavior on this Blazer is unexplainable.

Most of the time the braking works perfectly. Depresses down about half way to the floor, breaking is gentle, smooth and feels right. Other times it begins to pulsate as if I have a compromised rotor. The brake pedal is hard and doesn’t travel down as normal. Sometimes the pulsating just starts while I just driving. A bumping or pulsations which I can feel in the steering wheel, brake pedal and just overall in the vehicle. There have been times when I have to “punch” the break pedal, even when I am driving at speeds of 55 miles an hour to get the pulsating to stop. It is as if something in the brakes system is not releasing and/or just starts the breaking pulsating unexplainable. The only correction has been to stop the car and restart and the pulsating problem goes away and it seems right again.

I have had the brake calipers checked. They are well lubed and move freely, boots are in good condition. The behavior seemed like the ABS is trying to work for no reason at all. I was thinking that this was the problem. So, I pop out the fuse for the ABS.... This left my ABS & traction control, panel lights on and indicating the ABS is disabled.

The problem still occurs from time to time. So now I’m thinking there is something wrong with the computer which governs the whole braking system.

I would like to have some insight in to the possible problem. I have been to many auto service and dealerships service centers over my 45 years of driving.
Just to get jerked around by folks who can’t figure out a problem, and just starts to replace very expensive parts trying to eliminate the issue at a high cost to me.
I can’t afford this route. Just need to know what other possible reasons could cause my issue.

new calipers i squeezed the old ones with a c clamp quickly should nt have probably and bleeder screw was clogged rust.all new now.goes down the road striaght till i hit the brakes.abs light has come on and gone out.Tried to bleed them by myself i have no help.should i bleed both sides at same time.

My headlights will sometimes stay on even though I have turned the switch to the off position. If I turn the switch to the "auto" position the lights will sometimes go off. There are times when I have to turn the switch in both directions several times before the lights will actually go off. This happens daily. I have had my battery go dead twice because I didn't realize my lights were still on when I left my car during the day. What could be going on??

when vehicle is idling, blows cool heat. when driving, blows warm air.

My 4WD light is on but I'm pretty sure it's not actually in 4WD. A mechanic friend says "the motor" is fine, not sure what motor he's talking about. I think he said he thought the problem was the transfer case module. At any rate, I was wondering if there's anything else it could be before I go buying the part because even online they're expensive. Also, where on this particular car would it be located? I believe he said it was just a deal where the old one sort of unplugs and the new one plugs in, didn't sound like a big deal to you know?