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what cyliner does this control, am i looking at the problem to replace the coil

Can you use the bell housing bolts to pull up the last inch or so of space when installing it.On a chevy express van they dont recomend doing this ,in the past you use to be able to do this like in the 70s and 80s, has this changed today?

sometimes my cars starts and runs just fine. sometines it takes a few miles and about 3,000 rpms to get it out of 1st gear. it is very inconsistant running great at times and than not shifting gears normally at time. it dosn,t seem to have anything to do with engine tempature. someone told me there is a sensor of some kind plugged in to the transmission that might be bad? where would that be located?

A nonstop clacking noise under the passenger dash. The fan blows fine, but no warm air emanates from any vent. Narrowed it down to milk white device bolted to top of black blower box. I think it is a gate valve inside the box that is controlled by a barely visible shaft under the white device, and the gate is hung up somehow so that it won't completely open to allow hot air into the fan's airflow, and the gate keeps trying to cycle. Pulling the electric connector off the front of the white device stops the noise.

I can see this after dropping the glovebox door open, but can't access the device or fanboy easily. I need to remove the dash for better access. I popped off the black defroster vent trim from the dash top okay. There are several screws at the glovebox hinge and some were exposed on top near the windshield when I removed the defroster vent trim.

What else do I need to do to at least slide the dash back a foot? Maybe I can tear the fanbox assembly apart then, and repair whatever is haywire with either the gate (I'm guessing here) or the white plastic control device. Ford dealer quoted $700 repair cost, no doubt mostly labor to deal with the dash.

It will run good for days then start doing this had it checked out nothing can be found.When checked out a lot of codes came it but still is not fixed

says timing belt and sparkplugs need to be changed for $950

One mechanic told me I need to replace 4 mounts and another mechanic told me that they do not need to be replaced.

Acceleration unpredictability as if cruise control is on, check engine light, throttle sticking, replacement of battery too often, cabel issues, transmission acting wonky, everything you can think of keeps happening and its all sensor related. I fix the probs and the sensors. We are talking $$. Now, its in again. Thing is, I am way overdue on Timin belt change, though I've changed the serpentine belt and several hoses, oxygenn sensors, more than once. frustrated.

The driver side floor is getting wet. My brother found water coming through the engine compartment. How do I seal it up?


radiator an eventully truck got hot an shut down. changed radiator an still loosing water out the exhaust. loosing about a gal every 60 miles. coming out both tail pipes. need input.

been having a leak on my 04 325i and person in west seattle said 328ci 2000 and 325i 04 expansion tank are the same...

and what tools will i need

My ETS light, BAS light, Break light, break light and check engine lights are on. Dealer 1 says the computer indicates low voltage and changed the battery. I drove the suv for 2 days and all the lights came on. Dealer 2 say is fuse box and replaced the fuse. I drove the SUV for 1 day and all the lights came back on. What may be causing this problem that these two dealer have mis diagnosed? My SUV is ML 500.

Previously, when my windshield wipers were turned on, they hit the bottom of the windshield each time they went back-and-forth (at intermittent, low, and high settings). A mechanic made an adjustment for free and they now hit the left side of the windshield each time they go back-and-forth. In addition, because of his adjustment, they don’t come to rest all the way down when I turn off the windshield wipers. The windshield wipers’ speed is consistent as they move back-and-forth. And, their speed in any of the three speed settings is the same as when they are working correctly. That is, they’re not moving faster or slower than normal in each setting. Does anyone know what might be causing this problem?


Whines upon acceleration, decreases when let up on gas pedal. Drove about 5 miles to home and rear end over heating and smoking