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the first code was po402 and i had the egr valve, egr solenold,
that code did not come on anymore now i have a code of po171
why did the po402 go off and i got the po171

It came back Knock Sensor, Knock sensor defective, check connector and wiring to sensor. So...first what is the knock sensor and what does it control? Secondly, the guy who scanned it said it could be a bad O2 sensor causing this error code. Third, how do I determine which problem it is? Forth, where is it located?

It heats and cools just fine. The problem is having to constantly adjust the temperature settings to attempt to keep it from blowing full blast all the time. What are the possible issues causing this and what parts might I possibly need to fix this? I'm a chick trying to do my research so I won't get ripped off! :)

I pulled my '01 F-150 out of my driveway today and before I left the street, my oil light came on and the oil pressure gauge dropped to the bottom. Within a couple seconds, the light was off and the gauge was back to normal levels, only for the light to come back on and the gauge to drop again just as fast. Obviously turned right the heck around and drove my other car instead. But I'd like to know what any of y'all think I might be looking at. Checked cost of oil pump replacement and pressure sender replacement. Would much rather replace the sender. But I've gotta know my chances.

There is now blower action for the AC at all.I was told all I needed to do was add freeon to it.That's not logical if there is no motor moving yes?

and the sunroof is an after market product that doesn't work either. I can hear clicks in the roof when I press the ASC buttons. Is all this tied together in a circuit in the fuse system. I s there an easily available schematic to check it out. Hopefully an easy fix,?? I love the car in spite of this stuff.

no fire to plugs.

The temp slide control has very little effect on the air temp. Even on fresh air the air is warm with control on cold and warmer but not hot moved to hot. Same with a/c on. Slightly cold on cold and warmer on warm.

Just noticed a puddle inside and the top inside roof is it must be leaking. Am I suppose to scotch guard it or something? The top roof outside is material.

Code reading a EVAP leak. Local mechanic dropped tank and did a smoke test. Cracks found in the EVAP tube on top of the fuel tank. Being told the tubes can not be replaced and new tank is required. This just does not make any sense.

there is anti freeze pooring out of the back of motor but it is not over heating is it a possaible head gasket

I read that it could be a spiders nest or dirt. how do I clean this? I know it is under the car but looks like a lot of parts. Which line do I ckeck and how?

I had autozone run computer and this is what it said something about the evap blockage ect. I use the car for delivering mail on rural route lots of dirt roads. I would like to fix this on my own but do not know how to locate or check to see if line is clogged. Please help

my husband is replacing the a/c and needs to know how much oil it takes

There is a waterline cross section behind the motor where you can's see it.At that point there was a seal that went bad and had to be replaced1

Looking to find out if anyone has experienced problems with rear window leaks on newer model Caravan. We just received our vehicle, brand new, and after first rain noticed water running into rear arm rest/cup holders on both sides of the van (essentially down the frame pillar). Drivers side appears worse, in other words more consistent, passenger side not noticed since first instance. We have the power vent window option so did check to make sure no one was inadvertently leaving window slightly ajar. Also, van has been factory converted to wheelchair accessible but relevant structural changes would (should) not have any direct bearing on this part of the vehicle.
I have friends with newer model Dodge trucks (1 or 2 years old) and both have had leaking into their rear cab, with no idea where it originates. Is this a typical Dodge problem?