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just had intake manifold replaced because it blew a hole and was leaking antifreeze. brought truck home and ran like new, the next day let the truck idle for about five minutes and the missing and hesitation started. code reads p174 and other meter read that there was only 20lb fuel pressure. I really cant afford to spend all kinds of money on several different maybes. I know that p174 means lean fuel, I have looked for vac leaks checked all plugs for injectors and cops.....confused

few days ago if you gave it a little gas it would go into reverse gear good with no slipping at all but then a dealership drove it and floored it hard and since then the reverse wont work at all. how can we replace the reverse on the value body without replacing the whole thing which is $1000.00 for just the valve body part, no labor. Nissan doesn't sell anything but the whole body.

I have had my Sebring for almost 4 years now. Nothing but trouble and stuff going wrong from day 1. I have replaced my front wheel barrings 3 times now and I feel they are going out once again. Two years ago when I replaced them they went out again within 3 months! Luckily still under warranty. Is there/could there be something else wrong that is causing them to go out so fast? Thought it was the grounding at one point but that was fine. My dad also thought my drive shaft was bad too but no mechanic has said anything to me about it. I also got into a fender bender last November and ended up having my front suspension replaced too. My car also burns oil pretty fast for whatever reason. Help??

Dash indicator light dosen't come on.When turned to accessory nothing,no radio.Headlites do come on.Already replaced ignition switch.No help.Any ideas

Can any one help me Florida is very hot this time of year .


We have had numerous instances where my wife has gone into a store, to church, etc. and came out to the car and the trunk lid was open.
The car has been taken to the dealership 3 or 4 times about the problem and it still opens by itself.


it is the 1996 intratec 4 valve double overhead cam model.

I just replaced the engine and clutch a few months ago, after about a month of driving, now its really hard to shift 1st 2nd 3rd and reverse. I checked the fluid level and it was full. I didn't change it when I did the engine swap, but the manuel said it does not require schedueled fluid changes. When I first crank up and start driving its fine. but if I've been driving for a while it gets really hard to shift. It almost feels like its not lubricated, kinda dry feeling. and at times I can pump the clutch and it goes in a little easier, my clutch fluid is still full and clean?

Fault code said left ignition coil was bad so I replaced that along with the spark plugs and the car is the same. When I pull car out of garage in morning it usually runs ok but driving to work it starts acting up and loses power.

new rebuilt transmission
all new motor mounts (balanced)
engine checked out
new idle motor (was not problem)
replaced torque converter again
still shake's
mazda dealer and mechanics say it is internal to transmssion
but AAMCO who rebuilt it says no!

I have looked under the left front and inside the engine compartment and I do not see how to change the bulb as the light is no longer burning.

Two separate instances of this problem about 24 months apart. Now showing same symptoms again. Wish Buick would address the fact that there's a design flaw with this engine.

1. Blower motor does not work on any settings. What could be wrong? Maybe just a fuse? Fuse box location?
2. Due for 120,000 service but I only use the car occasionally when needed to shop and move things as it is 3rd car -- not my primary driver. What should I REALLY do rather than what the Honda dealer wants to sell?