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The noise problem is always; however, is at its loudest when the engine is cold.
it is not the door locks, it starts the minute you put the keys in the is behind the panel...what could it is NOT the lock is below is electrical and behind the plastic panel on drivers side next to the third seat.
when you first start the car for the day temp gauge does not work warm up for 5 min turn car off then back on it works ,turn off for aprox 30 min turn car back on does not work turn car off them back on it works, allready replaced temp sensor and thermostat didnt fix problem any suggestions on what the problem might be?
After the car runs until its hot the gears grind sometimes and are harder to shift especially 1st and Reverse
My rear nightlight(the tail lights) don't turn on, also when I hit the remote to lock the doors, the lights no longer blink
My rear brake is working. I can not drive in night time because of this problem. I checked all the fuses and changed all the bobs, still not working. Please help me. Also inside of my car gages light is working and side panel( drivers right) not light as well. Front nightlight are okay. What could be the problem?
Thank you in advance.
The check engine light came on in my 03 Ford Ranger and so I took it to Autozone to get a code reading. They couldn't get a reading from the DLC so naturally they checked that the fuse was not the problem (#17). They fuse tested fine. I checked that the wires weren't disconnected or damaged and they seemed fine as well. What should I do next?
The coolant runs out as soon as I place some in the coolant container, the repair shop is about three miles from my home it ok to drive it there to the shop?
this is constant without the lights being turned on.
my brake lights do however work correctly.
is it feasilbe to just change out slave cylinder w/o changing master cyl? is this a closed system?
be I need to reset computer. Can I do this myself?
I was just wondering about how much it would cost to fix this problem? The codes stated it was a malfunction with the secondary air injector.
Car started to sputter, then finally just wouldn't run. Checked for fuel pump running it was but the pressure was only about 20psi. I replaced the fuel pump, strainer, and fuel filter. I also blew out the fuel lines and emptied the tank of old gas. I added 5gal fresh gas opened the fuel rail and ran pump until new gas came out. engine turns over with not atempt to start. Checked for Injector pulse with node light tested ok. checked for spark tested ok. If you spay starting fluid into the throttle body it starts right up and idles good until it uses the fluid then shuts off.
bought it nov 2009. replaced brake pads and needed new rotor on driver side. 6 months later new pads on front and rotors turned calipers checked no problems. 9 months later same thing new pads and rotors turned all way round calipers fine. august last year 2011 caliper drivers side only replaced rotor turned new pads and new bake hose. today 9/29/12 need new caliper drivers side but i will replace both. might need new pads and new rotor again! was also told to replace brake hose again and problems would be fixed. whats the deal? something else has to to be bad to keep causing this.
car has 68k miles
trans was in repair shop 3 months. unable to be fixed. is this fixable or should I get another transmission