Close

Car Questions

Get answers to your auto repair and car questions. Ask a mechanic for help and get back on the road.

Find questions for your car.
232,863
questions
When the light first came on the cap was loose, but the light does not go away after tigjtening the fuel cap
I came out this morning to go to class and got in my car. I unlocked it with my key fob and held the button down so the windows would roll down also, which worked fine. I threw my backpack in the back and sat in the driver's seat for a second (probably totaled to about 15-20 seconds before I attempted to start it. All of my gauges and my radio immediately came on, but when I turned the key nothing happened. There was no click or remote attempt by the engine to start up. Confused, I tried a couple times with no luck. I got out and checked the connections on the battery to the engine, and everything looks good (no corrosion or dirt). I realized that in the time it took me to unlock the car, get in, and attempt to start it, the doors had relocked. Thinking that this may be a security measure for the starter as well, I took my keys out, locked the car, unlocked it again, and then attempted to start it. VOILA! My car starts and has no issues on the drive to school. I get out of school, and the exact same thing happened. I unlocked the car, took a second to get in, but this time the doors weren't locked. Trying to be inventive, I went ahead and locked the doors again and unlocked it to see if it fixed the problem. Again, it worked and my car started. Now, when I got home, I shut the car off and after about 10 seconds I tried restarting it and it was fine.

That being said, I'm guessing it has something to do with the key fob not relaying to the ignition that the car has been unlocked (at least that's my guess, and be easy on me if this is wrong b/c I do not know that much about vehicles). If this is the case, how do I fix it and how much would it cost?

I'm hoping it's something simple like a fuse & I can get some good news. Thanks in advance for the help!
It sounds like it's revving up over and over again and then calms down after a while.
we had the oil changed when it was due with synthetic oil as it says in the manual. two weeks later, the oil pressure light came on and then the engine light.
we parked the car and immediately called the tow truck to tow it back to the dealer. they are accusing me of driving without oil which I disclaimed because the triple a tow driver checked the oil and told us that it was full.
now i am faced with the possibility of having to pay for a new engine even though the car is under warranty. How could this happen ?
My check engine light came on. Mechanic ran diagnostic and received OBD code P0147. My understanding is this is an Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction, bank 1 sensor 3. I have spoken with NAPA, and they said that was not enough info to order the part, you need to know WHICH sensor. I then called OReilly. Really nice girl suggested ordering part online at autopartswarehouse.com and gave me the code for the part she THINKS I need. (Bausch 15802) She said to be sure, she'd need to see a diagram of the engine showing the O2 sensors, and I could probably find online, and beside the sensor on the diagram it should have a number, and I'd use that number to order the right part. I'm not able to find this diagram anywhere. Can anyone confirm exactly what part I need to order? Thanks!
Happened while the car was in use. Thermostat read exactly halfway between H and C...
I hear a clanking sound for about 5 seconds when I either lock or unlock my car. All the other tires are up, but the right read is drooping and the air bag is not inflating. Is there a sensor or something that controls only one tire?
also note some water dripping down the fire wall on the interior. I have no AC and know it is not the coolent. No dealer nor body shop know how to remedy this problem I need advise thanks
Doesn't happen all the time thoug
I need to know if I can replaced my self.thanks.
my wife says the car is hard to turn and when it idles there is a knocking sound by the belts
does not leak when car is turned off.
The car will run great except if I drive it a long
distance and then it will simply shut off while driving it
and won't restart til the next morning.
and advance faster but not making the shift. is there any thing like timing or vacume advance to check out before looking at the torque converter. there is no leaking of transmission fluid any where.
but stays in the lower gear and reves rpm on the motor.Just moved from the desert in scottsdale az. Any effect from timimg. I am thinking torque converter any suggestions. There ia no leaking of fluid in the transmition