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I had the camshaft synchronizer replaced due to a chirping sound coming from that location; however, the sound has returned. My thought is that the oil pump isn't working properly thereby, not distributing the oil to that location. Is that a possibility or is it something else?
I plugged my GPS into the cigarette lighter and could hear a fuse blow ("click" sound). All fuses in the fuse box checked out OK. However, since this incident I don't have any interior lights, radio, nor cigarette lighter. When checking the voltage on the 10 amp radio fuse (in the fuse box), the meter read out 5.3 volts. Shouldn't that be at least 13V? The van is a Mark III conversion.
When a start my car is fine. It is quiet and all normal, but as soon as it reaches 40mph and the RPM get higher, the engines gets loud like it has turbo charge or something. I do not remember the engine been loud before, but I have noticed it lately. No leaks in the exhaust, no engine light, no overheating, maybe eating more fuel than before. Car runs fine, but I do not know why the engine and the rpms get loud especially on the highway is when you hear it the loudest (75mph or higher)
engine died while driving happened 3 times in the last 3 zone couldn't find any code
drivers side taillight not working
never seeen this before
The fan worked when the AC was on but otherwise it failed to work. I replaced the grey temp sensor. Fan worked. While I was at it I replaced the thermostat because I had to remove the housing to get the gray sensor out. I tested the car and it ran great with good temps and the fan worked without the AC on. This was yesterday. Today I drove the car and all was well. I made several short trips with short stops. I came home with no issues. I left again 20 minutes later and got 10 minutes down the road and I was overheating. The fan is now not coming on even if the AC is ON. The temp just creeps up until it's overheating. The car cools fine at interstate speeds. The fuses under the hod drivers side look fine. I have to drive about 70 miles tomorrow. I'm considering hot wiring the fan to the battery. I really didn't want to cut into the harness.
Side note, while the car was running moment ago and getting quite hot, I pulled the plug off the grey sensor and the engine seemed to rev up a bit. It was quite odd. I didn't confirm by looking at the Tach. When I plugged it back in, it idled down. It wasn't as if someone was flooring it, just a little more gas. Seems like the sensor is having some affect on the computer, but the fan just isn't cooperating.

I never confirmed the old sensor was indeed bad. I'm not sure how to test it other then put an ohm meter on it and drop it in boiling water. When I did the sensor swap my battery light came on. I let the car run for about an hour or more and the light went off so I figured the batt was a bit low. I just want to be thorough in describing all possibly related symptoms. Thanks for the help.
I've replaced numerous parts on this car. Plugs, wires, the coil pack on #3, IAC, MAC...but when I start it in the morning, it idles up high then drops down to about 500 RPM's and will choke out if I don't step on the gas. There is a clicking sound from time to time near the throttle body before the idle catches and revs back up. It's also sucking gas like crazy!!! The check engine light is on and says the IAC is bad even after putting on a new there a leak in the vacuum? HELP!!!
Gas indicators fluctuates between full and 1/2 tank otherwise shows empty most of the time. Tried fuses several times and within 2 weeks the fuses are blown. I find also that my left signals and/or headlights have had to be replaced 2x in past year but have never had to replace the right side. I have had this car 4 years.
dis alarm system
someone said one is incased in a box and the other is a two fan can anyone advise me

Where is the clock spring located at? Thanks for all the info... Ur site is awesome and so very helpful...
My daughter has a Honda Civic that does the same thing.