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I purchased a 99 Suburban in March and it ran perfectly for the first 2 months (March and April). I am actually not sure if it is a 1500 or 2500, however I could not submit my question without picking one. I live in Charleston, SC, and now that the weather has gotten hotter and more humid (85+ degrees), I have had numerous occasions where my truck will start and immediately cut off, or not even turn over at all. I have not noticed a direct correlation where I can actually predict a failed start will occur after the security light comes on and stays on while driving, however every time I have had a failed start incident, the security light will start flashing. I HAVE noticed a direct and distinct correlation between the outside temperature and the likely hood of a failed start. I have had the ignition cylinder replaced, and that seemed to solve the problem for a couple of weeks, however the problem is back and worse than ever. Up until this past weekend, I had always been able to eventually get the truck started. Every time I would experience a failed start, I would bring the truck over to my mechanic to be looked at the next morning. Unfortunately by the time I would get the truck to him, it would start normally and not give any diagnostic codes indicating a problem. I've seen a lot of mixed information on line concerning these systems and am looking for any sort of guidance to help us diagnose and solve this problem for good.

Water condenses on under dash enclosure panels on both side wheel wells and drips on to feet. Is this caused bu condensing on surface or a blocked drain?

I own a 2004 Cadillac Deville and at 45 mph i being to experience a vibration in the wheel, i feel it in the steering wheel and in the gas pedal. the problem gets worst as speed increases and i notice that other cars move away or back off away from me. I have changed my tire rods, rotors, my air shocks, and recently within 1 year replaced my tires. I have taken it to the dealership and they continue to tell me that everything is tight, but i still experience the same problem

The driver's side power seat is not working. this vehicle has the memory switch. Are there any common issues that would apply?

2.0 liter SOHC, first generation vin designation 'C'.
After new valves, timing belt, (cylinder head removed). When initial attempt to start, engine cranked over - but no electrical on dash, traced that problem to the BODY not being grounded, could find no cables, straps, or wires that were disconected, so I fabricated a ground cable going from engine to cylinder head. Sha-Zam electrics now present. Attempted to start - no start - traced problem to having no spark at plugs, or coil.

Did 'flashing light' test at coil pack connection. Then replaced CPS (camshaft position sensor), then the CRPS (crankshaft position sensor) In that order.

Again this is ((AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM)).

I am wondering if attempting to start for a time with the body not grounded could have damaged the PCM? (as it is bolted to the body) Remember the starter was working fine, even though nothing else electrical (lights, and dash indicators) would work) I really would not like to replace the PCM $$$$ if not the soulution.

All relays were switched around - NOT the problem - all fuses checked, one other thing, when we were cranking it over last week, I noticed some smoke coming from the rear of engine compartment - the exhaust side-.

Does the PCM have to be reset, every time I replace a component (CPS, CRPS)?? there are no trouble codes when testing with my OBD I, or II.

Please read this question carefully, before answering.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated, as this is my daughters only car, and I am just trying to get it back on the road.

Thank You
Ken @ K.C. Engineering (Motorcycle tire, and service center)
San Francisco, Ca.

I own a 2004 Cadillac Deville and at 45 mph i being to experience a vibration in the wheel, i feel it in the steering wheel and in the gas pedal. the problem gets worst as speed increases and i notice that other cars move away or back off away from me. I have changed my tire rods, rotors, my air shocks, and recently within 1 year replaced my tires. I have taken it to the dealership and they continue to tell me that everything is tight, but i still experience the same problem

Cooling fan relay, Raditor

how much should it cost to replace oil pan gasket

Seems to work so-so thru defrost vents. Can hear vents trying to change when activated. Where do I start to try and fix this?

Cannot start up radio using power knob, CD and Cassettes both stuck inside, eject buttons do not work.

The AC system had a leak which I had fixed. The front AC works fine. When I took the side panel off I checked the blend door. It moves full travel from cold to hot. I started the van and the AC pipes going in were the same temperature. The small line looks like it goes into a temperature controlled valve. Not sure how that is suppose to work. is there a secondary compressor for the back AC? Maybe electric?

The tire pressure light came on on my van. I noticed the tire was worn so I decided to replace it. The technician says the sensor ring has fallen off the wheel. What does it look like and how can it fall off. Does the ABS system still work without this sensor?

the car was recently painted and they took the rubber around the headlights out. I am having a hard time replacing it. Is there a trick? they are left/right so is that from the driver or looking at the car

What can i do to get this fix, called the dealership . gmc said they couldn't fix. Seem to have alot of the same promblems with cracks at airbag.very concern

How long should it idle for?