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Auto zone checked and it said check circuit fuse, defective relay or check circuit wiring? It's on constantly until I put more gas into the car. I'm never below 1/4 tank. Diagnostic codes are 661,662,663.
I have removed rim & can not get drum to come off.
When jeep is warmed up . Reverse is stalls and loss of power.
camry has 306,000 miles. loud clacking sound. using oil but no leak on ground. we change oil 2500 miles. have to Add oil between changes. perplexed. Because of lifters, does engine have to be replaced?
I click the turn signal on and sometimes it starts to work, blinker going click click and lighting up THEN with it still clicked on it just stops on its own..it just goes dead, no light, no noise of clicking, just nothing. Ill click it on and off and NOTHING. then later while driving it will all the sudden work again. sometimes when they wont work for nothing, if I click my hazzards on for a min it will make the turn signals work again but not always.
(95 Accord LX 2DR coupe F22 SOHC NON-VTEC) Within the past 5 years ive replaced the fuel pump, the fuel filter, the entire ignition system,the V.S.S, Cleaned fuel system and injectors multiple times and ive checked all of these in the past few days. The car has been running perfect for years besides those few problems, hasnt sputterd or stalled or had a problem shifting at all. 3 days ago i put it in reverse backed up about 3 feet and it died and hasnt started since. The D4 light started blinking and c.e.l light came on when i went to re start and it hasnt stopped since. also The fuel pump is not running as it should before start up now. ive checked the fuses and ive checked every plug on the tranny and the motor. ive checked the tranny solenoid wiring and found nothing. ive pulled the main relay, resoldered some cracked joints with no effect. i also pulled my ECM and TCM and found nothing wrong with either one.The codes the car gave me are #3-Map sensor circuit, #4-CKP sensor / engine speed (RPM) Crank angle sensor or circuit, ECU sensor, #8-CKP sensor / engine speed (RPM) Crank angle sensor or circuit, ECU sensor, #-13 BARO sensor circuit BARO sensor or circuit, #-14 Idle Air Control valve circuit / ECU Open or shorted out ignition signal circuit / No signal to ECU and #-42 Oxygen sensor heater - right side Oxygen sensor / heater or circuit. i checked alll of the wires for that bundle of sensors and found nothing. i also pulled a vac and volt test on the map with no problems. I checked all of my Vac lines with no issues there. Alot of people assume it to be the vss but ive crossed that bridge before and had completely different problems than what i have now. Again... backed up, car died, D4 light flashs,check engine light came on, and fuel pump stopped priming system and car wont start all at the same time, car just turns over and over without luck.
I have a 2007 GMC Sierra Z71 4x4. When I start it up, warnings come up and say that Hood is open, service tire monitoring system, service 4 wheel drive. Also, I have no power windows, locks, turn signals, no high beams and brake lights stay on. The wipers also do not work properly. Taking to dealer tomorrow. But any idea what it might be?
Almost everytime I start my car the Rpm needle moves up and down quickly and it sounds like I am giving it gas when I am not. What would cause this.
This part is heating up and causing the truck to not start or start and run for awhile then quit. sometimes it will restart after it sets for awhile
always the back lights are burned same how and reflects to signal lights
i don't have much money but need the car for work, any suggestions
The dealer checked the car out & agreed that there is a rumble, they re-balanced the tires, but no real change. They suggested that I put in a better gas, which I've done, but still no change. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Everything electrical on that door does not work
Think it is my solenoid pack in transmission what do you think. I have a 1994 Chrysler LHS it runs great when you first start it then get it on the freeway for 20 minutes or so and when you exit and stop it will start to shake and die unless you put it in nuetral then it stays running. The other thing is when you do put it back in drive when you hit the gas it kind of takes a second and like a nuetral drop. I have replace my MAP,TPS, Idle air control valve and checked all vacuum hoses, new air filter cleaned throttle body and replaced gaskets.
my car was giving out only cold air so i changed the blend door actuator.now it only gives out heat.whats the problem.