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some times there is a noise coming from left rear when I turn left, but less frequent.
I just replaced the steering gear box on my k5 blazer and the hose attached to the box is still leaking. Did i miss putting in a o ring or what. k-5 is an 1978
initially, the radio back light would work / then not work. Every thing else was OK. Now the amplifier on the head unit gives a click sound on the speakers & i get no sound for a while. It is getting progressively worse.
Sorry to keep posting about this. I told my mechanic about the check engine light coming on again & he said he just didn't know, offhand but that he'd get it figured out. He only works on the weekends & isn't going to be in town this weekend. I just hate to pay more by going somewhere else when I've already paid him $200. Any other ideas? I'm almost scared to drive the car.
Tks, Susan
ok when turning my wheels to sharp my car dies or chugs down and then my engine light comes on when it dont die but it acts like it not gettin gas but it will restart with no problem at all i had a new muffler put on but dont know about the plugs havent did that yet i have heard so many things could be wrong with it so if u have an answer please let me know
What could be the cause? I am told that genuine MB parts were used and the shop replaced them but I still hear the squeaking noise.
I stop when it clicks to full you can smell the gas even when I dont overfill
coil problem caused backfiring through intake could that have caused damage?
engine light is quirky. Sometines it's off for days. The it's on for a while; then blinks for a while. It goes through this process constantly. Hand held diagnostic check says knock sensor and valve 3. I wonder if plugs changed along with oil change might stop it all. However there are electronic quirks. horn blows when i lock it now, but canot get alarm to go off. passenger door lock didn't work with the other 3 at first, now it does. Should I try plug and maybe plug wire change with oil change before I have knock sensor replaced? Just bought car and dealer said they'd split cost. Their mechanic, very good, says he'll do the labor at $200. the part ranges from $130 to $170. I pay labor--they buy part. What does anyone think? BTW no misses no bogging down runs great other than damn light.
ve keept up with all oil changes and appropriate maintenance. I want to keep it awhile. What preventative maintenance should I be doing at this milestone.
we have changed all of the sensors, fuel pump, sending unit, converters cleaned out, checked wiring, cap rotor, plug wires, and it still runs bad. what could it be
I replaced the purged valve, it was mounted on the side of the canister. I have a code PO440A.
Also replaced the fuel filler neck, mine was rusted really bad.
Remote would not unlock car doors, discovered that the car battery was discharged. Jump-started car and recharged battery. Discovered that lock/unlock switch on drivers door would not unlock or lock the doors, and that rear door switches did not work. Also discovered that the remote could not unlock/lock the doors or open/close either rear door. Had previously experienced a problem with the car alarm going off erratically and had to disable the alarm.
I would like to repair the problem, but can't locate the problem.
What's the fastest way to change the water pump