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Irregular, infrequent whirling noise. Seems to happen more often when I am rushing around town, doing a lot of heavy accel/decel. rarely happens when I am driving for hours on the highway. Has been happening for 6 years, and is slowly getting louder, but not distractingly loud at this point. Instrument gauges are not visibly affected. Beginning of day or end of day does not seem to be a factor.
my 2000 Alero is leaking coolant from the manifold gasket i have been informed this is a common GM problem...what is the labor hours charged and average cost for this repair???
Dash panel gauges not working what can be wrong?
The owner took it to the dealer and was told it would cost 500.00 for them to fix it. I would like to know what might could be wrong or will I be making a mistake in buying it even thou it is coming from and elderly lady and it'san one owner car. HELP ME please...
hazard switch clicks nonstop, stops briefly sometimes, doesnt turn any lights on while clicking, only when i activate the turn,then it clicks normal, when no turning or hazard, it clicks randomly again. i replaced the hazard switch, same thing with new switch,hope its not the multifunction switch, thats about a 180 dollar part,bad contacts in multifunction switch? bad wires? what do you think
ABOUT A MONTH AGO, I NOTICED WHEN FILLING UP MY TANK, IT WOULD READ ONLY ABOUT 3/4 FULL. 2 WEEKS AGO WHILE GOING ON AN APPT. IT RAN OUT OF GAS, GUAGE STILL SHOWED 1/4 TANK.IT THOUGHT SOMETHING MECHANICALLY BAD HAD HAPPENED.TOWED CAR TO REPAIR PLACE,THEY LOOKED IT OVER,DETERMINED,GAS GAUGE FLOATS BAD.TANK NEEDS DRAINED,REMOVED,GAUGES REPLACE, COST $400.00!NOW I FILL UP EACH TIME IT GOES BETWEEN 1/3 AND 1/2, HELP!!!! TOM L.
Dash does not always show the position of Park when in park.
hard starting after fill up and am going to try the purge valve first
on way to work car gave 3 jerks, almost like it was backfireing, then was fine again. same night going home car started and ran fine for about 3 miles then started to jerk continuously and eventually kill. hooked up hand held diagnostics. no vacuum leaks. replaced map sensor and mass air flow sensor. ran fine for 3 days and check engine light didnt come back on. did running after work on 4th day and on the last stop it had a hard time starting back up.had made 3 other stops before the last one and no problems, but we were at the places for an hour or better between starting it back up. the last stop we were there only around 5 minutes when it gave us trouble. new plugs and wires , new coil.it doesnt happen all the time, only if the car is hot and shut off for just a short time. the diagnostic codes all read fine, fuel unit is fine. one person said possible catylitic converter insides melted and plugging up or crankshaft position sensor. the oxygen all read okay. any ideas or help would be appreciated. trying to avoid a huge shop bill. thanks in advance.
so i changed the spark plugs it ran good for a couple miles and went straight back to sputtering during acceleration
blower stays on when engine is off
vhehicle is running but i just coast to a stop with no use of the gas pedal i shut it off and restart the engine and continue driving with all dash funtions normal. this has happened twice in 12 months.
just before that the heater quit blowing warm and hot air. i shut the engine off and restart it guages read normal for a couple of miles then same problem. the heater does not ever resume blowing hot just cold air.
I notice it more when it is cold. It even makes a grinding sound when turning.
It also comes on more when the roads are wet or snowy. Some times when the roads are dry at a slow speed when comeing to slow stop. It can be predicted sometime by feeling the peddle geting slushy..Pulls to the right every time and does it more when slowing into a right brake stop at stop signs. NO ABS LIGHT IS ON!!