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Well, I reinsured and retagged, now I want to drive it. Before I parked it, I had no problems at all. Now, when I start the car, it fires right up... no problem at all. But after 2 or 3 minutes of running, whether at idle or driving, the car dies. It's like I have a dead battery. No power at all, no radio, lights, nothing. Then, about 5 or 10 minutes later everything works again (I have full power) and it starts right up and drives fine. I have NO idea what is going on. Computer problem?

So to recap: Start car, dies and have no power.
Power restored several minutes later and runs fine. Then loses power.

I just got my 2000 Buick Regal back from being stolen and they took out the whole ignition switch and all of the wires,including the air bag switch is hanging down.I desperately need this vehicle to go to work.I really need to know how I can cross/connect,(temporary)the wiring that is there.It's all there,all the ignition wires hanging down.Even the tow truck driver said the thieves did not even know how to hot wire it.Please help me out as this is my only car and I can't aford to bring it to a mechanic right now but I can really work on cars/trucks but not hot wiring vehicles.thank you. Ron in Central FL.

Is this something I should worry about?

My car has been dieing on me off and on for the past week, I can get it to start again after I let it sit for a lil bit and sometimes after I disconnect and reconnect the battery. It will idle for about 10-15 minutes and then just die! And again I let it sit and it will fire right back up to the same effect. I did change fuel filter and had to change plug wires after my 3rd cylinder wire was all corroded at the distributor cap...? but with new wires it still acts up. So I'm leading to sensors, which sensors will shut the engine down? now the car runs good while running and it just shuts off like I turned the key off, no spitting or sputtering. would it be crank sensor? or could it be a coil problem, distributor problem? I'm at a loss as to what it could be. Also the check engine light is not on while this is going on, but it will flash on for a sec after I try restarting it, but doesn't stay on.....please help...anyone?

Just bought a 2002 Ford Escort 4 door 80,000 miles. It test drove nicely and the seller's mechanic verified that the car has been excellently taken care of. When I drove it a little while ago, I noticed that the car vibrates a bit on the front passenger side close to the motor. When the glove compartment was not shut tightly enough, I could see the compartment door moving a lot and it was vibrating so loud. Then I shut it harder and it was better but there was still a bit of vibration on the front right side of the car. My landlord looked under the hood and noticed that this type of car has a lot of things compacted on that side. Is this because there is a lot of components on that side of the motor? Should I just get used to more action on that side? Otherwise it seems like a nice car. Appreciate any advice you have, again I just bought this car and really hoping it will be ok.

I have purchased the replacement tranny.

broke the 4 clips in the cabin filter, how do I remove the filter box now?

Car has 82,000 miles. Replaced battery and one month later emission light came on. Codes PO 305 and 301 cylinder misfires came up. Replaced all 6 spark plugs and 6 ignition coils and intake gasket. Cylinder 5 kept misfiring and burnt out the engine control module so replaced that also. One week later emission light came on again and now have a PO 420 code. Other than replacing catalytic converter is there anything else it could be

Car lacks power and takes its time to catch its speed. Makes grumbling sound? How can I find the leak?

The air conditioner works sometimes and then other times I start the car and nothing but hot air. Comes and goes

when starting car,i have white smoke from exhaust.also when pulling off from stop light and when baclking up aftyer sitting a few seconds

failure to shift into overdrive, then other gears. Once the car downshifts, it just tacs out and I have to put in park and turn off. When I turn it back on if the transmission is cold it works more often, as it heats up it gets harder and harder shifting. (automatic stationwagon)

whenever i drive my car long enought it stalls espically coming off the expressway it starts right back up and sometimes dies immidately erased codes and the only one that came back was p1599 have any ideal what the problem is mechanic is acting like a idiot

thermostat replacement

just wandering what could be the problem from changing my battery that would make the a/c not blow how would I go about fixing it have you herd of this problem before