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Every time I fill the gas tank, the gauge shows full, but after a few minutes the needle falls to empty and I hear the warning indicator that the tank is empty (even though it isn't).

Noticed lights back on after coming in the house. Could not
get them to go out and stay out. Clicking noise like door locks are locking and unlocking. This is the first and only time this has happened. Removed red cable from battery. Any ideas on what is causing this?

This happens intermittently but has been is most frequent on start up when car is parked in driveway on slight hill.
Ford wants to install a new transmission solenoid body, but I fear that this will not solve the problem. The cost to do the repair is $370.
In addition, we have a leaking powers steering pump and leaking coolant gasket. Total bill for all repair comes in at $1930. Is it worth it?

the wire comes from outside of the glove box the plug in is like a head phone jack

2006 BMW 530i the passive restrain and seat belt lights are on, is there a reset method ?
Is there a recall on this problem ?

I replaced my heater core and now the brake lights stay on when the truckmm is in the run position, but work great when the truck is turned off. My cruise control turns on but it does not engage when I hit the set button, my ABS lights come on, and it starts making a dinging noise and a light on the cluster comes on and says lamp out and theres no lamps out. I have removed dthe dash again and checked all the connections and reinstalled and itws still doing the same thing. All the other lights work like there suppose to even the third brake light. What tin the world could this be? Could the PCM be the problem?

It was like the battery was dead. I had a mechanic look at it at the tire place and it started right up. Since then it has done it twice. I think it is a ignition switch problem, because the last time it happened I had switched it on accessories. Any other thoughts?

The fuel evaporation line is bad and Ford said they can no longer order the part?

Doesn't always stall and when it does it is sudden, with no warning. I notice the automatic parking brake release does not work, which makes me suspect a vacuum leak either with that actuator or elsewhere. Could that cause the sporadic stalling?

Had to jump it yesterday and ran diagnostic today indicating possible low voltage starter problem. After jumping and driving car today it seems to behave normally. As soon as it was connected with jumper cables it fired up. Ran errands and each time it cranked fine. I have used Honda Conyers where I bought it for all maintenance and repair.

all the time blowing the 25a radio fuse. the vehicle still wont start. i broke out the tester and get high readings on the tow fuse. andy help is more than appreciated.

My car is a 2010 Sebring convertible. I can not open my trunk except with a real key. The inside trunk release does not work, neither does the key. Any ideas how to fix?

I have a Mazda 2 2011
Model : DEJFS (Skyactiv istop)
Milage 7000

A few days back the engine check lamp came ON and still persists.

When cold have no sounds, after it warms up the steering makes a whining sound when turning while speed is slow, after u get on road starts to run little warmer than normal temp. while driving straight it will start to make whining sounds again, I can turn steering wheel a little either way & it will stop making noise & temp will start to go down, but when straightened back up it all starts over.. It does have engine light code is P0304! I recently had plugs & wires, oil & filter all changed & problems seem to be getting worse.. Can anyone PLEASE direct me in the right direction?

if i get my hand in the door is there a switch to make the latch pop open to open the door and remove the panel to fix the problem??