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I have never had the transmission flushed and I am at 128000 miles.

Emissions test. I took it to Auto Zone for a printed diagnostics test. The code P0430 came up. Is that the o2 sensor?

I just bought a second-hand GMC 2003 Savana. Drove it home, ran beautifully. Was very pleased. Got in it the next day to try to go to work, engine would not start. Cranks fine, lights, radio, A/C but engine only coughs a couple of times as I let the key go. I wait an hour, turn the key, starts up fine - as if nothing was wrong an hour before. Next day, it does the same thing - won't start. Crank sensor, fuel pump?

My voltmeter needle is no longer in the range of values on top(from 10 to 2 oclock) but registering now from 8 to 5 oclock. During heavy rain, water is coming in cab probably from the top running lights

not work is there fuse somewhere that i can change

a bout two years ago i got a new battery from autozone. a year later i took my car to firestone for an oil change. they told me i needed a new battery. I THOUGHT they were trying to sell me a battery i didn't need. then i noticed that acid was building up on my battery the positivre post and the wire leading to the positive post. the engine light came on. i took the battery back to autozone and they said nothing was wrong with the battery. 5trA FEW MONTHS Ago the car wouldn't start. the acid had eaten the wire and the clamp on the positive post. on august 17, 2013 i took the battery back to autozone and they finally replaced the battery with a new one. now about a month later the engine light came on again aqnd acid is building up on the battery again. i do not think i got two consecutive bad batteries from auto zone. i think it might be something else?

I had to replace the drivers door mirror and I think the wires from the old mirror may have touched and shorted the fuse out. I checked the fuse panel and can't find any blown fuses. Please help.


looking for where is the micro switch/proximity sensor located

My driver-side headlight no longer works on normal low-beam, but it comes on when I shift to high-beam. Would replacement of the headlight (#9003) fix this problem?

My dodge 360 will not start. it has low compression on all cylinders and zero on the back two on the right bank. it is getting fuel, seems to be firing. burned oil for a long time and it looks as though there is coolant in the oil so im thinking bad headgsket. but will that cause it not to start? let me know what you think and how much you think it would be to fix it. parts mainly since I will do it myself. I just don't want to tear it apart without knowing if its even worth the time to tear apart. It died on the highway, first it started shaking like crazy, its done this for a while when under pressure, so I let off so it shake itself out of the truck, then it lost all power, sputtered, and died. Will turn over and over but will not start. thanks for your help

i would be driving and i stop at a light or something and it would feel like im in nuetral. diagnostic code 742

I noticed the roof was not comply closed and pushed the button to close it. First the front started to open so I pushed to the button to close. It was then that the back stated to open, now the front and back are open and a horrible clicking happens when I push the button to open or close. The driver side rear is locked and will not close or move, the passenger side back will slide back and forth. I read it is a bad cable if so how much to they run?

This car has been driven gently yet the engine rod is bad. Barely drivable,I can only go 2 miles back and forth to work (horrible sound and bucking) and know that this car will die anytime now. Is it worth it to replace/rebuild engine? Dealer says no given their price to do it, and would only give me $500 for trade-in. Where can I get another engine? What about scrap metal places? Has anyone else had this problem...this should NOT happen at under 100,000 miles!

Car engine begins to whine/whistle and when slowing to stop, a/c slows down and radio/radio lights go off. Sometimes the engine and all electrical shuts off. When turning off engine to park, there is a click-click-click that continues for a while and when doing this, the engine will not start, you cannot move the gear shift from park, and you cannot lock the car doors (electric). Eventually it will stop, and then you can start it again.

Just prior to these problems, we had the alternator and battery replaced by the local Mazda dealership. These "symptoms" started the day we picked up the car and have grown increasingly worse. We've taken the car in three separate times, for a total of 7 working days and 2 weekend days. The first time, I pulled up and turned the car off, it made the click-click noise and wouldn't start or lock. I made sure they saw what it was doing. They called a few days later and said they could not replicate the problem and didn't know what was wrong with it and to bring it back again when it is acting up, we drove it in a few days later and my husband rode with the tech to be certain they would acknowledge it. The car powered down and the radio shut off when they came to a stop. They kept it several days and still didn't know what was wrong with it. They claim the alternator "components" checked out okay. We brought it back again and left it for two more days when it started failing completely, all electrical and engine shutting down without warning. They said it failed once when a porter was driving it, but started back up and they don't know what it is. I think they put in a faulty alternator, but I'm no mechanic. What could it be? Could continuing to drive the car as we have cause more damage to it? What would you do??