Car Questions

Get answers to your auto repair and car questions. Ask a mechanic for help and get back on the road.

Find questions for your car.
My Allison transmission shifts out fine when driving under normal conditions but when I have to accelerate fast and push the throttle to the floor, the transmission acts like it is slipping and will not stop until I let off of the throttle. The temperature of the transmission never gets over 150 degrees and it doesn't appear to sound or feel like a mechanical problem. It is also full of fluid. Basically if you hit passing gear the engine revs up and the truck will not accelerate until I let off on the throttle. What is the problem?

my dashboard lights have all burnt out-what type of bulb to I get and where are all the screws located to take off the dashboard frame? OR is it easier just to bring it in to the garage and have someone else do this and what is the approx. cost? The bulbs did not all go at the same time so I know its not a fuse
I have a lest headlight out. I bought a pair of head lamps and replaces both. Sill left light out. I swaped head lamps left to right etc. Still no left head light. Called the dealer and they said it might be the igniter switch. What is that and where is it on the car ? Any other Ideas of what might be the problem?
The left headlight, nor the left plow light work on low beam. Tried a new isolation module and that didn't help. Any ideas?
car will not idle below 3500rpm and will not shift into overdrive but at times it will run normal check engine light is off hooked up a scanner no codes any ideas?
My car abruptly stopped working, My car will shift into gears but will not move in reverse just revs, in neutral car actually will move forward, any ideas what could be wrong with it, Fluid Level is fine, filter and gasket were changed about 8 months ago?
What would cause the temperature gauge not move until after 20-25 minutes of driving. During this 20-25 min period if I come to a stop the idle repeatedly jumps to 2500 rpm then immediately drop back down to 1000-1500 rpm, this erratic idle continue until the temperature gauge starts to move upward. If I touch the radiator hose it is hot, but the radiator cap is still cool. Also once gauge starts to read, the passenger compartment begins to get a faint smell of burnt oil. If I stop the car for as little as 15 minutes this process will begin again. I'm afraid possible thermostat problem. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
I am on my third water pump in three months. When my first pump failed,it was rapidly leaking coolant and my coolant was completely drained by the time I reached the shop. On the second pump (which lasted 2 months), I noticed a high pitched whining and a slow coolant leak (via the level in the reserve tank) before the pump completely failed as before. The third pump lasted only three weeks and I noticed the same symptoms as before (intermittent whining from engine and dropping coolant level) but brought the car in for repairs before a complete pump failure. The mechanics at Pep Boys (who have replaced all of the pumps) have said that their pump may not be compatible with my vehicle (2000 vw cabrio) and are ordering a pump from the VW dealership. I am skeptical, as it seems very unlikely that so many pumps in a row would be defective. Is this a common problem with VW models? Is there anything else connected to the pump that could be causing these failures? I have also been told that the belt on the pump may be too tight or the tensioner may be faulty. If so, why wouldn't the mechanics have seen this? Is there a way to check this myself? I have very limited experience in repairs, so any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks!
I've checked the fuse it's good but there is no power to the fuse and I don't have any lights on my dash.
I just replaced my transmission. In doing so I broke the crankshaft position sensor. I didn't know why my truck wouldn't start at first, and in trying to diagnose the problem, I kept turning the motor. I found the problem, replaced the sensor, and it started right up. However, it now jerks, sputters and the tach drops significantly, both at idle and while driving. There is no sturdy acceleration now, and there is a clicking sound coming from somewhere under the truck (it's late and cold so I haven't looked yet). Do I need to sync the CPS, if so how? If not, then aside from Dodge making a horrible vahicle, what could be the problem?
how often should thedrive belt&fan belt be replaced
So first 30cm of snow this week, a few blocks of snow and ice hit my jetta's belly.. I parked it today in the garage, and 2hours later noticed a red liquid just behind both front wheels..? Thought maybe of some leak of the coolant, but color and smell don't match.. Prestone is orangy but this was dark red. And coolant liquid level was normal. Any idea?

On a different note, do any of you know what (and how) to replace if those red lights that light up all 3 climate control knobs at night went off?

(I should add that right before going home I had to press hard on the brakes for about 10 seconds while my car gracefully slid on black ice to avoid a coming car, which made that weird brakes-being-useless sound.. Brake liquide?How?)

Thank you.

my truck just die in the middle of the road. it will not start..fuel pump works but will not turn over..just changed spark plugs..what could be the problem??
Around highway speeds (50-75mph) while pressing the trottle vehical shaking horribly, once I let off the gas the car runs smooth and again press gas just slightly the car shakes again. Thinking the transmission. I have had motor and tanny mounts replaced at 70k, now at 83k and having another shaking problem.
Runs ok when cold, but barely can get home when it warms up. I have relaced plugs, wires, dist. assy, computer. could it be bad injectors?