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There is a 4 switch panel on the ceiling just to the rear of the front seats. It has the word Colemen, in red, that is back lit. The light behind it NEVER. SHUTS. OFF. Van off - light is on. Key out - light is on. Doors shut - light is on. 24 hourse a day - light is on.The switches on the panel are labeled L. Rear, R. Rear, Sofa, and IND. I've no idea what IND is, either, by the way. Flipping the interior light switch on the dash makes no difference. This is the kind of van that appears to have an upside down boat atop it, and that you can stand up in - if that helps you picture it. For better visuals, the exterior is white and teal, the interior teal, teal, teal, teal, and oak. It's horrible and amazing. I hope someone has some notion of how I can stop the red Coleman glow of mystery.... Thanks for reading this.

no mater which position the selector switch is in.

The bolts to my manifold has no head an locksmith cant get it out

Keeps going into diffrent gears. Uncontrollable. Stops the car in traffic

I changed the ignition switch and still have the same problem

This problem just started yesterday afternoon. Then this morning it was fine. But this afternoon it started doing it s again.

Started this morning and just shut off. Will not turn over, good battery, tried new key switch, dash lights are on till hit key then go out. Will turn over if jump solenoid but still won't start with key in on position.

Where is this located?

So recently I experienced some issues with my car where it would shut off while at idle. A mechanic suggested to me the symptoms seemed to point to my alternator or battery. The car has 102,000 miles on it and I was told it is not uncommon for an alternator to need replacing at this milage. Long story short, I replaced both the alternator and the battery. I also replaced my MAP and Crank Shaft Sensors. I changed the oil and replaced my main belt as well. The car currently can only be jump started. The alternator is not providing power to the battery according to my volt meter. I took the alternator back out and to the shop where they bench tested it and told me it was good. The voltage regulator seems to be built into the alternator so I ruled that out with the bench test. I tried following the wires to the battery but the wire bundle goes into the car and I lose the wires from the alternator. Can anyone point me in the right direction about what might be the issue?

I was told while getting the tire rod fixed that the axle was leaking and it would cost $240. Is this an average price? This would include parts & labor

what more detail do u need?

it does start up again but does the same thing over

both key wont turn they are stuck about a week ago one set of keys were sticking my wife ,had to ture the streeing wheel to get it to turn over now both keys wont turn and don't know what to do should I replace the ignition lock

Fuel pump, starter, relay switch been replaced. Error codes p0420, p0304 plug and wire, p0155 o2 sensor bank 2 sensor1 happens after driving for a while just shuts off like as no gas all battery functions work like radio Windows etc.. Power steering is gone... Wait a while and will start again about 5 minutes if try write away turns over but doesn't start... Engine is not riding rough no backfire nothing that lets you know it's going to shut off... Happens at highway speeds as well as low speeds and at times when stop.... Please let me know where to start... After research my codes seem to trigger eachother o2 sensor can cause catalytic converter code so need a starting point

front driver seat doesnt recline or move forward/backward when adjusting it with the controls on side. but when you fold the seat over it does slide up and then if you put the seat back it slides back to original position. i have checked the switches/ fuses/ but i took it to a shop and they told me it was a power control module?...not sue..cost about $300 to get replace. is this correct? Could it be the UCS unit?