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The engine harness on my 1994 E320 Mercedes-Benz got short circuit after a shop changed my serpentine belt. The impulse counter "Led Blinks" 18 "Adjustable camshaft solenoid or short circuit and 22 times cam position sensor signal defective. It is my understanding that once a shop start moving or bumping the engine wiring harness around you disturb the crumbling insulation on the engine wiring harness and short circuit occur. My question is can a shop repair a short circuit engine harness with out having to replace the engine harness.
my air condition does not get cold even even after i put more air conditon coolant inside it. it was already full with coolant, all the fuses were fine, but i need to find out if there is a low pressure switch on this car. does anyone have any suggestions? the car has no previous incidents. the air conditioner was working fine last spring but never used it until now.
How do you remove rear shelf to get to 3rd brake light
why wont my 1995 plymouth voyage start for a few hours to a couple of days after being shut off
A mechanic said that my solenoid pack was stuck and if he took the pan off the transmission and there were metal shavings then I would have to get the transwmission rebuilt or replace it. Is this information true?
Hello, My question is regarding my 2005 Avalon. I maybe the second or possibly third owner, I'm not sure. My car tends to vibrate when I reach about 65 to 75 miles per hour. It pulls a bit as well. I have taken it to a couple of shops, one of them a dealer. I was told it needed the entire rack and pinon, to replacing the entire sub-frame, to the front axle's being bad, then the latest guy told me that he though it was the front tires that needed replacing...Hell I can't seem to get a clear answer from anyone. Can you guys give me a hand with this so I know what my car actually needs...I'm confused and a bit taken with all of mis-information...
How do I remove the Nut on the back (inside) portion of the hub it looks like a gear.
how long does the job take?
The speedometer and tachometer lights are out in my t-bird. All other lights are working. I checked the fuses they seem to be ok. The dealer says that the entire instrument cluster will most likely need to be replaced and that will cost $900. Any ideas if they are correct or where to check next. Any hel;p is appreciated.
i can hear the blower running at all speeds but no matter where i put the slector , floor or defrost i do not seem to have much air coming out of any vent. i pulled the dash control out and the cables are moving with the selector . what is wrong ? or is this all the air i get ?

Jim
I HAVE 74K MILES ON MY CAR AND WAS WONDERING IF I SHOULD EXPECT THE SHOCKS TO NEED REPLACEMENT. THE CAR IS NOT A SMOOTH AS IT USED TO BE. I FEEL BUMPS MORE THAN WHEN I GOT IT.
My jeep is making a grinding cyclic grinding noise sometimes when going up my very steep driveway and every once and a while it makes the noise after accelerating from a stop at slow speeds (10-15 mph). The noise stops at higher speeds. Husband has changed the u joints and drained, cleaned and refilled the rear diff. Also he recently changed my back drum pads and front brakes. He mentioned how rusted everything was on the back brakes but said he cleaned them before replacing the pads. Could it be the brakes sticking and rubbing? This problem doesnt happen when turning- but going staight. Every time he has had to jack up the jeep to fix something, the noise goes away for a while and I think that its fixed. But within a week or two it comes back. Right after he fixed the back brakes, the car had a lot more pick up than "normal" and grinding was gone-making me assume it was the back brakes sticking and rubbing. But now its grinding and dragging a bit again. Ideas??


Recently replaced radiator, and heater core hose (heater core replaced last year). When car is running, I'm getting antifreeze leaking from somewhere above the transaxle. It has a steady drip when running, then when I turn on the A/C, it POURS out. I also have no heat when I turn the heater on now, but I don't know if this has any bearing on the first problem. It is a 6 cylinder 3.8 engine.
I have been to two shops and they can not solve my problem.
There are no leaks or blown fuses. Problem appears to be electrical. Dealer wants $129 just to look at the vehicle. Are there any shops in Las Vegas that can solve my problem without having to pay the high dealer prices?
When i slow down to a stop, my car stalls. Sometimes it starts right up, sometimes it doesnt.