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Q: power draining from batt/could it be security feature? had new batt tested/good on 1995 Ford Taurus

Rookie cbe0621eac06868b3efe0d8d1d3611e23c60d3114864ea2ec19a68cfbd3eebab
new battery.had batt checked.if i dnt start daily,its dead nxt day.had part replaced that causes spark which enables car 2 start. jump starts work, but, same thing happens if i dont start every day. security feature: press unlock button on drvr door.if u isnt prssd, alarm sounds n light flash. secrty feat. dsnt fully work anymore, only light flash. not concerned @ fixing. think this may be what is causing drain.this added feat. has blinking light on dash. when i get in car,its blinking,then,slowly fades and stops cause batt is jst about dead,then is do i disable this feature? again, not concerned about repairing it, so, dont mind if it doesnt work @ all. if power doesnt drain after disabling this feature, ive found the answer.
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It could quite possibly be the security/alarm system. You may have some sort of battery draw that needs to be isolated and eliminated. You would need an amp meter disconnect one cable of the battery put your Amp meter in series with the battery cable that has been removed. Note the draw say for example 15 Amps, with the keys out of the ignition, doors closed driver's window down, start removing the fuse links and fuses one at a time until the voltage draw goes away to zero (or near zero about .02 to .05 Amps is about normal for a modern vehicle with a clock, stereo and other things that need "keep alive memory"). It is that circuit that is causing the electrical draw, then look at a wiring diagram, see what electrical consumers are on that circuit and start to isolate each circuit to see which is the culprit. Modern cars have lots of computers and electronics that need constant battery even with the key off so parasitic draw of .2 Amps may be normal sometimes things stay "live for a minute or two afer the door is closed so wait and look at the draw after a minute or two.
You will need a good wiring diagram and amp meter or better yet an inductive amp meter and start disconnecting fuses to see when the "load" goes away. There is a company that independent auto repair shops get their information from, this same information is available inexpensively for people that work on their own cars.. The information is year make and model specific, covering repair procedures, torque specifications, fluid capacities and specifications, service bulletins, component locations, wiring diagrams ect.... Alldata is very easy to navigate
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