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1996 Nissan Maxima Questions

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what do i do now
My cars runs fine until it warms up and then it stalls when I come to a stop, then I start it back up and sometimes it runs fine and most of the time it stalls again until I give it steady gas. No check engine lights on, Sometimes the car will run a couple days without doing it. I don't drive the car but maybe five miles a day, some days not at all. It stalls even in Park sometimes. Had the car checked with trouble scanner and no codes stored?
('96 Nissan Maxima, 160K) Recent persistent "clunking" sound, worse over bumpy road. At first, I thought perhaps something embedded in a tire, but tires look OK. Brief ride w/ mechanic, and he looked at undercarriage. Can worn-out struts be diagnosed visually?
His opinion is worn struts, though not necessarily dangerous. He said repair/replace could wait until problem worsens, but it's very disturbing driving now, hearing that sound.
Was told that new struts may result in a stiff ride, more feeling bumps, but it seems repair should be done.
I drove the car fine with the made key I got no key fob or original key...one day I got in it to start it..NOTHING won't even turn over and the security light is flashing..what can I do without spending a lot of money on a key fob
pretty sure not blowed head gasket. And doesnt do it all the time. Trany fluid driping out weep hole.
Had the canister purge solenoid replaced. Every code is up to par except the catalytic converter.
High-pitched squealing when brakes gently applied -- only during first miles of slow driving/braking, after car has been sitting for hours or overnight (mild weather temps). After driving for a brief time, no longer hear this sound when braking.
Inspection reports one "rear caliper dragging" -- recommend replacing (both) + pads + machine rotors, not inexpensive.
Comments?
Have a broken wire right at connector so can't splice.
Evidence of oil blowback, not noticed for quite awhile. Suspected oil leak, both valve cover gaskets. Repair shop advised to keep checking oil dipstick, adding oil, until I can afford repair.
Is this sufficient for the time being, to prevent total engine fail. Also, what else might be found when valve cover is removed?
I've looked n looked no coolant spots in the driveway n no signs on the engine but the car looses a gallon of coolant every few days has anyone had this problem
Coolant leak on the pavement, appears to be on front right side (facing forward).
At last 2015 inspection, brakes notation:
F "4MM" and R"6MM"
Assume front more immediately important?
If no brake squealing/grinding is heard, no brake chatter, maybe I can avoid the extra cost for rotor resurfacing??
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