2005 Mercedes-Benz CLK320 Questions

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Is this a manufacture defect and is it a recalll item? 2nd occurrence in 2 months.
What seems to make the problem better or worse? when I use wipers. Rarely in AZ. But last 2 times.
How long have you had this problem? Last couple of months.
Not all the time, sputtering problem went away about a month ago but now seems to be returning slowly
Does back headrest up have anything to do with the top not wanting to go down?
The convertible top will not let down
I have 2005 CLK320 with a bad engine control module, had the same problem with the car in the beginning of this year, the cooling fan run on high constantly and tells me to “Visit Coolant Work Shop.” Sent the ECM in and had it reprogramed and fixed the problem, it reoccurred with the same problem cooling radiator fan running on high constantly and tells me to “Visit Coolant Work Shop,” so sent it back in and they could not repair it this time. My question is, can I take an ECM from a donor car (salvage) and replace my old ECM with that one. If so, what else would I have to do besides also switching the key and ignition switch? Would I have to change anything else, like the truck locks or door locks, etc.….? Thanks!
My 2005 CLK 320 has it's radio faceplate/lens delaminating ,how do I get this repaired? Seems to be a common design/manufacturing defect.
Car says premium only, but several folks have told me if it doesn't knock, then regular won't hurt it. Anyone running regular gas with no issues or has anyone run regular gas and had issues? Thanks!
A picture would be ideal.
I have a vehicle engine code P0456. It has been smoke tested and no leaks are present.
I have read many issues with the Air Conditioning failing. I think one reason is a design defect. The two lines run along the left side of the car over the wheel well and through part of the chassis. This section that runs through the chassis is suppose to have a plastic bushing or isolator so that it will not rub on the chassis. In my car this bushing fell out and the high pressure line dropped against the chassis and a hole was rubbed into the line. This started a chain of events where metal entered the condenser and eventually the compressor causing both to fail at a price tag of over $2500 for repairs. I recommend checking if this is still in place or removing it and wrapping the lines with rubber tubbing or similar insulation.
When the cruise control is attempted to "Coast" it malfunctions and ststes to "Go to the Workshop" for diagnosis. If the car is turned off, it resets and works again. I disengage the Cruise to slow or tap the brake instead. Once in a while it does not want to work at startup but this is seldom.
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