2003 Mazda Mazda6 Questions

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After puttin neutral for a few seconds then returning to drive it's ok. Tran fluid is ok. Could this be an electrical or computer issue??
Ok, there are two things that went wrong, that lead to my mazda not starting.
the gas gauge started reading a quarter tank when completely run out of gas. then a few weeks later it read 1-1/2 quarter tank of gas when it ran out. then finally a half tank. now it wont start, but when it finally gets started up, it puts and sounds horrible, then when you barely tap gas pedal, it instantly dies. the engine hesitated for a couple days, then on the second day it finally would not start.
the shop i took it to to have it diagnosed said it was a cracked intake manafold.
is this a part i would easily be able to change myself? and what tools would i need?
When I started by car this am, the engine sputters for a bit then stalls after 20-30 seconds. Also, when I press on the gas it doesn't "rev" at all. Is it something with the transmission??
The battery was replaced a few days prior to the incident. It started up as a rough idle and then it would not crank any more. The battery is good because all lights etc come on
My car has had loss of power. Biggest issue> My hazard light comes on spontaneously & locks breaks. I pull car over. It shakes back & forth and I'm unable to drive, as if the breaks have locked on me. So, I turn car off and then back on and problem goes away for the day, but never fails to happen the next day or two. Its been occurring more lately. I took it to a mechanic & they said it was defiantly the throttle body.
I bought it as a second hand car dealers in Japan. The car dealer told me the O2 need to be changed. The day it was serviced by Mazda Amtec, the check light disappears. But after driving for less than a kilometer it reappears again. The car perfomance is so good as I was driving it for almost three months. I sent it back to Amtec Mazda and they told me to change the oxygen sensors, the catalytic converter must be changed as well. So Im now confused. So what is the real problem now. There are no codes shown on the dashboard. I just noticed in the morning when you start it produces a white smoke from the exhaust pipe and it disappears after some few minutes when the engine is running.
The guy that replaced my alternator brother the plug/connector that goes into the alternator. He got some wires and spliced them did it that way. Could this be why the battery light is coming on still?
I own a 2003 2.3L European JMZGG 166HP Hatchback Mazda 6. My engine's nikasil coating is damaged after putting chrome plated piston rings in 1000 miles. I'm willing to avoid this problematic engine with its balancing shaft preventing from proper oiling the middle cylinders. I would like to put a regular 2.0 liter engine as they seem to last longer and are affordable. The gearboxes are the same. I know I have to swap both the engine and the computers, but what about the wire harness. Will it fit? My engine has vvt and uses spark plugs. The new 2.0L mazda engines (After 2006 including I think) use ignition coil and have vvt. Can somebody tell me if I can swap an engine from 2.0 with ECU, which year this car should be (pre or after 2006) in order to keep my stock wire harness.

The engine looks like this:
Problems which includes; repairs, fuel consumption
This shop i went to said it would be 870 to 900 that a rip off?
Yesterday, I started it and turn it off, started it and turned it off, tryed to restart it again but it wouldn't. The gauges began to quiver and flutter and go up and down for a minute or so. After that, they went back to normal and the car started right up. The battery is a new NAPA Legend. The car never needs to be jumped in order to get it to start. The car also stalled at a traffic light the other day but started right back up when I turned it over. The car acts like this almost every use.
only code po303 #3 can shut off in gear usaly fix it not always i am broke down on road now if somebody can tell me what to do to get it going home to a permanet fix
I just got this car, and I chose the 4cyl. because it's NOT the timing chain rattling, oil-leaking v-6...however every where I look at forums and personal posts, the shitty front wheel bearings are mentioned. Your website is head and shoulders above most other sites, I was wondering about the omission, Thanx.
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