Leaking water pump housing, the plastic elbow from l manifold to wp housing.
1998 Buick Regal
Leaking Water Pump Housing, the Plastic elbow from L Manifold to WP Housing.
(1998 Buick Regal)

1998 Buick Regal 3.8L (Non Turbo) I just replaced the upper plastic Intake Manifold/Plenum section due to both flooding of the manifold internally and hydrolocking of flooded Cylinder #6. And after fully completing the job sucessfully and of course refilling w/ all fresh coolant, I noticed I still have a coolant leak that probably was the cause of the entire issue leading to previous loss of coolant and that manifold issue.
The leak is in a plastic 90 degree fitting (left end where it enters the water pump housing, not the lower manifold), that is on top of the water pump housing (crank dampener end of the engine), behind the multi accessory belt, above and to the right rear of the water pump pulley),that goes between the front middle of the lower Alum Manifold and the main water pump housing and it is leaking where it goes into the side of the belt tensioner part of the water pump housing.
My real questions are: Are there "O" Rings on each end of that 90 degree plastic fitting or is it glued or screwed in place? If glued in place, on which end is it glued, manifold or water pump housing, or both?
Best way to tackle that job?
Is that 90 degree fitting a part of the water pump housing, or a part of the lower intake manifold, or a totally separate piece w/ just an "O' Ring on each end?
Lastly, what is the actual name of that fitting? So when I do tackle the job here I know what part I'm actually looking/asking for.
TY for your time in answering. Your time is "Fully Appreciated."
As I can see and reach all the way around where that fitting is leaking and given the fact that there are many other cheaper ways to cheat and accomplish sealing that up w/ high temp epoxy, JB Weld or the like, and I do know what a job uninstalling/reinstalling that water pump housing must be to simply change out a possibly shrunk or dried out leaking "O" Ring, I was/am highly tempted to go that way. But, I realize that fitting is under at least 14 Lbs of pressure and more when the water pump is spinning.
I would much rather do the job right the first time and not have to worry about it further leaking as I live in a very hot climate and it just reached the century mark w/ a long hot Summer right around the corner, and I often drive long distances in the extreme heat out away from many services for miles on end w/ the A/C going full blast.
Thanks again.
cglrcng
The leak is in a plastic 90 degree fitting (left end where it enters the water pump housing, not the lower manifold), that is on top of the water pump housing (crank dampener end of the engine), behind the multi accessory belt, above and to the right rear of the water pump pulley),that goes between the front middle of the lower Alum Manifold and the main water pump housing and it is leaking where it goes into the side of the belt tensioner part of the water pump housing.
My real questions are: Are there "O" Rings on each end of that 90 degree plastic fitting or is it glued or screwed in place? If glued in place, on which end is it glued, manifold or water pump housing, or both?
Best way to tackle that job?
Is that 90 degree fitting a part of the water pump housing, or a part of the lower intake manifold, or a totally separate piece w/ just an "O' Ring on each end?
Lastly, what is the actual name of that fitting? So when I do tackle the job here I know what part I'm actually looking/asking for.
TY for your time in answering. Your time is "Fully Appreciated."
As I can see and reach all the way around where that fitting is leaking and given the fact that there are many other cheaper ways to cheat and accomplish sealing that up w/ high temp epoxy, JB Weld or the like, and I do know what a job uninstalling/reinstalling that water pump housing must be to simply change out a possibly shrunk or dried out leaking "O" Ring, I was/am highly tempted to go that way. But, I realize that fitting is under at least 14 Lbs of pressure and more when the water pump is spinning.
I would much rather do the job right the first time and not have to worry about it further leaking as I live in a very hot climate and it just reached the century mark w/ a long hot Summer right around the corner, and I often drive long distances in the extreme heat out away from many services for miles on end w/ the A/C going full blast.
Thanks again.
cglrcng
cglrcng in Golden Valley, AZ on April 30, 2013
2 answers & 2 comments
Popular Answer
pushrod on April 30, 2013
Google youtube enter 3.8 GM plastic bypass pipe look at video. Remove battery neg. cable before starting work! Not a major repair if handy with a wrench, seems you are. Get parts at GM dealer, better part and price!! Fixed a parking lot full of these. To save you and me some typing and time go to youtube, pretty good instructions. Been a bunch of intakes that got the blame for this leak!
cglrcng on April 30, 2013
pushrod on April 30, 2013
Coolant Leak Diagnosis
$88 - $111 Learn Morepushrod on April 30, 2013
Google youtube enter 3.8 GM plastic bypass pipe look at video. Remove battery neg. cable before starting work! Not a major repair if handy with a wrench, seems you are. Get parts at GM dealer, better part and price!! Fixed a parking lot full of these. To save you and me some typing and time go to youtube, pretty good instructions. Been a bunch of intakes that got the blame for this leak!
cglrcng on April 30, 2013
pushrod on April 30, 2013
terrell.unde... on May 09, 2017
Water leakage is a common issue for most of the home owners. With proper solution and timely care you can avoid the consequences of water damage. Like sealing cracks with water proofing solution, proper maintenance of water pipeline, cleaning of downspout and repairing of faucet leakage all these measures work well to overcome the problem. For extreme cases professional like http://damagerelief.com/ are always there to help.
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