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Q: Ignition Start problem on 1991 Ford E-150

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I replaced the key cylinder on the column because it was broken. Now the starter doesn't work. There is no pressure or spring back when turning key to start position. Do I need to replace the ignition switch and or more parts ?
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Check to see you have power at the Yellow wire at the ignition switch( it comes from the fuse link/battery power), the brown /pink wire should be live only when starter position is engaged, red/light green is live in the run position, if any of this is not so the switch is bad and needs to be replaced. Alldata is probably the best source for information. The information is year make and model specific repair procedures, service bulletins, component locations, wiring diagrams ect.... Alldata is very easy to navigate http://bit.ly/AllData_Repair_Manuals_Online
Thanks for the fast reply, and info. I was also wondering if the switch lock actuater might be the culprit. I will check it out tomorrow.
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This sounds as if the vehicle was staring before the key cylinder replacement so i suggest to recheck the cylinder installation and connections to the switch.
Your problem sounds more mechanical than electrical. When you turn the key past the "Run" position to the "Start" position, the ignition lock cylinder moves a rod that actuates the ignition switch. Because there is no "spring back", I would suspect a bad switch or a mechanical disconnect/breakage between the lock cylinder and the switch.
I have determined that it is the acuater link that connects to the lock cylinder and a rod that goes down to the ignition switch proper. I have taken off all screws in the turn signal switch area/housing and horseshoe clip at the shaft bearing. Still solid what next? Any diagrams, hints, etc. All I have is the Chiltons minimum to no info booklet. This is a non tilt column.
I have had the same problem where my 1991 E150 would not crank always or not at all. I replaced the battery, starter, starter relay and finally the ignition switch.No results. Today I noticed something while testing with the switch continuity at different positions. I noticed a wear pattern where the
holding nuts have been slipping and the switch has changed position. If the nuts are not tight enough to hold the switch it (switch) will change position and the switch will not engage the starter position.
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