2012 Hyundai Sonata Questions

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The tool light is on everything comes on but the car wont start

So my pedal, while driving, when depressing it, feels like the car "pulls back or idles". It does not shut off, and 5 seconds max later, it accellerates fine. But during this time, rpms drop to under 2k. "Flooring it" does nothing, and it kinda feels like the pedal isnt working.

It happens periodically, every 3 to 4 min max. It started when my esc light came on, and subsequently, my brake lights stopped turning off.

Im changing the brake switch tonight, and im hoping all of this is entertwined. I want to do this all as cheaply as possible, as to be frank... im broke.

Please help. Im stressing.

Comes on while traveling down a non slick road and also cruise control stopped working also. I suspect they are related

Daughter pugged in two prong adapter to cause problem..could it be a fuse? Where ? She is way out of town with the car..affair it will short out fan and cause overheating.

We bought the car new 6/2012 maintained it religiously changed motor oil every 3 moths or 3,000 mile as recommended. Last oil change 2/15 within the 3,000 miles On my way to work out of the blue started making a metal on metal harsh noise, oil light came on car died on side of road, had tow truck driver check oil it was full. Got it to dealer mechanic figuring ok... my motor train warranty will fix the issue... they get it up on lift and the guy tells me the oil pan was smashed into the oil pump, which seemed impossible to me as I had not hit anything.. I told my mom who works on cars also; about what they said; she went to the dealership climbed under the oil pan and took pictures, nothing was smashed or pushed into the oil pump in the pictures, we were told the car insur. collision, will cover it. The adjuster came out and had it on the lift and came to the same conclusion my mom did there was no evidence of damage other then a small dimple normal wear to the pan, mom said she has several on her oil pan, she said things bounce up from the road and at 60mph hit the pan and cause a dimple; certainly nothing that would cause or effect an oil pump. The adjuster feels it was a bad cam shaft bearing install or bad oil pump. The dealership is refusing to admit fault and the ins wont cover it now either... Did any one else have this or a problem with the oil pump or bearing related.. I feel the dealer should be liable especially since I just had it in there 2/15 for the oil change and nothing was mentioned then about any damage and nothing happened to the car after wards to damage it and one month later in the first week of 3/15 I have a blown motor. And my mom finds it suspicious that they did not mention any debris in the drained oil that should have been checked in any oil change that would indicate a developing problem again their negligence. The motor ran free of problems, no noise, and ran strong until that morning. Current mileage 70,000.
Help I am having a nervous break down over this, I cant afford a new motor, and my dad just went out of his way to help me out and paid off my car loan balance in 1/15 of $6,000, and they tell me the new motor will cost 6,500.

When I start to drive my car it shows it's in Drive but revs to 5-6 rpm when going into gear like it's wanting me to shift as it would in manual. There is no error or engine lights. Why? What should I do? I do not drive in manual.

This seems early for these to go bad- not sure what to do-

It makes a d d d d. Noise when you accelerate and keep it at 40 miles an hour and then when you take your foot off the gas, the noise stops.


I can not turn my car off the key won't turn back all the way it seems jammed or locked? the only way I was able to turn off my car was by unplugging the battery
to reset the whole car its
never done this before

on the highway when trying to pass another car and step on gas the engine doesn't seem to be getting gas

happens when trying to speed up on highway to pass a car