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1995 Chevrolet S10 Question: hydraulic clutch

 

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, 4 Cylinder, Pineville, LA, May 01, 2009, 14:24
 Rookie

my clutch master cylinder has one fluid line coming from it to the 5 speed manual transmission. There is a bleeder screw above the fluid line on the transmission. what is the proper and best way to bleed the system in detailed step form? I tried bleeding myself but no luck, and now I can drive vehicle if I pump the clutch 2-3 times before each gear shift change. Now the whole truck is shaking harshly when driving. This clutch problem started when the engauged clutch pedal sank to the floor one morning and after checking, the reservoir was empty and been having problems eversince.

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  • Medium-star Best Answer
    May 01, 2009, 16:31
     Master

    Hydraulic Clutch System Bleeding
    Important: Never use fluid that you have bled from a system to fill the reservoir. The fluid may be aerated or contaminated.

    Fill the reservoir with new brake fluid. Use Delco SupremeĀ® Brake Fluid (GM P/N 1052535) or equivalent.
    Raise the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting Caution in General Information.
    Depress the clutch pedal (hold the pedal down).
    Open the bleed screw on the concentric slave cylinder in order to expel the air.
    Close the bleed screw then release the clutch pedal.
    Important: Ensure no air is drawn into the clutch system.

    Repeat steps 2, 3, and 4 until all the air is out of the clutch system.
    6.1. Check and refill the reservoir as needed while bleeding.

    6.2. After bleeding, pump the clutch pedal several times. If the clutch engagement is not satisfactory, repeat the bleeding procedure.

    If the previous procedures are unsuccessful, perform the following steps.
    7.1. Remove the reservoir cap.

    7.2. Pump the clutch pedal very fast for 30 seconds.

    7.3. Stop pumping and let the air escape.

    7.4. Repeat this procedure as necessary.

    Lower the vehicle.

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    , May 01, 2009, 21:16
     Rookie

    thanks Russ, but unfortunately I've had and tried these instructions. What gets confusing is the different ways advise is given to someone in the bleeding steps. Such as you (Russ) say to depress the clutch pedal, then bleed, but in hemicuda's answer for bleed procedure on a 94 S-10 is bleed, then depress pedal. Does this matter, or is it a model year differance?

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    , May 03, 2009, 15:14
     Master

    It does not realy matter if you open the bleeder before or after you depress the clutch pedal as long a you close the bleeder before you let the clutch pedal back up. If you cannot properly bleed the system you may have a problem with the clutch master or slave cylinder.

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  • Answer #2

    May 24, 2015, 14:22
     Rookie

    Check behind the clutch pedal in the floor to see if there is any signs of brake fluid leaking through the firewall in the floor be sure to check behind the carpet also ....if there is none there then go under the truck & remove the line from the side if the hog head. Place the end of the line in a clear cup or container. Have someone pour brake fluid into the clutch reservoir until a steady flow comes out of the line that you have just placed in the clear container. Keeping the line from getting air in it reattach the line to the side of the hog head. When you have re attached the line making sure that the reservoir is full & closed.....start your engine & the pedal should be firm & if it is not at first allow the truck to idle for minutes & then it will be good to go ....However, if it is not a firm pedal then it means that there is a leak in the system...& it is most probably behind the clutch pedal on the firewall. Just replace that master cylinder the repeat the priming/bleeding process as directed above & you should have no more problems !!! My Grandfather taught me how to gravity bleed a system & it has always worked great for me especially if you are working on your vehicle alone....( Don't forget to bench bleed the new master cylinder if you have to replace it or it will very difficult to get the system bled & the firm pedal.)

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