2005 Honda Civic Questions

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my 2005 honda civic lx 1.7l eng/tans shakes-raddles-and rolls only in drive at 25-30 and 40-45 mph, whats wrong with the car?
But as I take foot off the gas and reapply it goes away. This goes on and on. What's wrong with my car?
Is it necessary if light is on dash?
I was sitting in my yard and the car was running and it just cut off. All the lights went out and when I ttied to start it at first it started right up. Then about 5 minutes later it died again and would not start then with the key out of the ignition all the lights came back on and the car started fine. Whas wrong with it? Did I by a lemon I just got the car yesterday.
When I let off the gas while at these speeds, it will stop but sometimes (here recently) it will start back up again and I feel this shaking/shuttering/vibration on my gas pedal. We thought it was a loose hubcap, but that is not the case. I have had my tires balanced & rotated in April and I'm not even sure if that's the problem. My breaks are a year old I believe and I may need those replaced as well cause I feel/hear grinding when I press on my breaks occasionally, but no squealing sounds. Before, the issue was when I was driving the steering wheel would shake but ceased when I got my tires balanced & rotated if this helps diagnose whats going on. Thank you!
1st diagnostic said shift solenoid problem. Automatic transmission. Replaced solenoid, tranny fluid and filter. Also did oil change since it was way over due. Check engine light, and maintainance required light still on. Rediagnosed and came up with code PO730.
What would be the next step?
I really need inspection done by end of this month and of course won't pass with light on!
I don't know anything about rpms and all that. Just know that car seems to have no power in 1st gear. Have to start out in D2 then shift to D3. Reverse is no issue.
Any help or suggestions I can give to my mechanic who can't figure it out would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
I just replaced an 02 sensor, had the radiator flushed, had a new water filter, spark plugs and timing belt installed. I had taken my car in because of a "check engine light" coming on. It was diagnosed as a faulty 02 sensor. As I was afraid, the mechanics diagnosed other problems which led the above-noted repairs. I had to have my car towed home last night due to major overheating then returned it to the mechanic. The repairs were only completed 2 days ago. I'd like to be somewhat prepared for this new diagnosis that I'm sure will be coming saying they have more work to do. What do you think may have gone wrong following the original repairs. I'd like to go in and not feel totally uneducated. Thank you.
constant noise unless very slow. Changed the type of new tires twice and there is still a noise, hum, vibration. It has gotten louder with time. Turning the car does not seem to change the noise. It's from the front end driver side as far as I can tell.
I need to remove my oil dipstick tube and i am not sure how to go about removing the tube safely.
Took to dealer and they kept the car and said it is unsafe to drive "metal on metal." What should it cost to fix this?
control arms and bushings $1044 +tax
rear main seal leaking some $ 900 +
stabilizer links 171 +
rear main seal is leaking some 900+
Excessive rust on bottom of car
SRS control unit 520+
hood release cable 187+ paid $3400 keep or get rid of?
Automatic trans. Hoping this might be a somewhat common problem with an easy solution.
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