2003 Honda Civic Questions

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It will usually start again in an hour or so. It turns over well, but fire.
I already changed #4 coil and fuel injector and all spark plugs. The check engine light came off and I drove for 14 miles before it came back on.
I checked compression and tightened all valves. Check engine light came off but the car had some pull back during the test drive (no shaking from the engine) but the check engine light came back on. Ran computer diagnostics which indicated that the multi-misfires on cylinders 1,2, and 4.
I'm thinking that the fuel filter or pump may need to be changed...want to get an outside opinion before investing another $300+ into this fix.
needed 2nd cat/ changed cat light came back/ now changed o2 sensor/
light back on code p0420 cat efficciency bank 1 ??????????
I am out of patience.... wires all look good and no exhaust leaks
exh manifold and first cat was changed last year (was cracked)
acts like a carburated car with a bad choke on a cold day but only does it once or twice after starting up hot or cold . then will run fine .bad for pulling into traffic
now my airbag light wont go off how can I make it go away
check engine light came on diagnostic said it was oil pressure switch i replaced it now the oil light flickers i checked the oil and its full the light isnt steady it randomly flickers ???

I have a bit of a lengthy question and would like some honest advice I have a 2003 honda civic ex coupe manual trans with 3k left on my loan @ 6.5% apr with 189$ a month payments blue book is 5000-6000

Current repairs needed
Catalytic converter ($500)
Wheel bearing replacement($200)
AC condenser ($225)
Left power door lock actuator($100)
Engine ground problem car randomly loses power and battery wont stay charged even though new alternator and new battery and a used honda certified engine were just installed 2 weeks prior (81k miles on engine) While driving the SRS light turns on and then the dash lights go dim with the car still running ive checked all fuses and engine is grounded properly? Should i just trade this car in since the parts + labor + payments cost more than a new cars payments would be?
Rattling noise in muffler when driving.
Both sensors have been replaced the o2 is fine but the pre cat air/fuel sensor is showing as no voltage. It is brand new and showed the voltage for 2 miles then the light came on and retested to find error code and no voltage. So is there anything on the car that would cause this to fail or is it probably the sensor at fault? It is the same as the previous sensor and error codes were cleared.
positive battery cable could be shorting out maybe ???
Hi I had the valve cleaned but the fault has come back as soon as i left the garage. I need a low cost option on what to do next. Do I replace the valve?. The car does make a pinning noise and is slightly rough on idle. This fault came after funning out of oil :( help
My car was making loud noises going over bumps. Took it to Honda dealer. They did a whole inspection and he found a small leak, but not that bad. He said the best place to start would be with the front struts, but since it wasn't that bad he recommend waiting to replace. I don't know what would be fair price. I had this done in January of 2013. I haven't had any problems since then, but am going to be driving to CA, I live in MN. I don't know if I should replace before I go. Thank you for your response
Changed bulbs and fuses. Someone said the connector to the fuse is bad. Could this be true? What is the cost to repair?
I replaced the mounts and inserted energy suspension (front and rear mount)that fit inside the mounts because my engine jerked as I pulled off...(new clutch needed, wanted this done before clutch replacement).Other than the jerking of the engine moving from the bad mounts, there was no shaking what so ever from the at idle the car vibrates enough to where I can see it in the steering wheel. I would like to know if there is a certain way the mounts should be tightened and CAN I GET RID OF THIS VIBRATING?
when i start the car it starts idle normal at about 1000rpms an then starts to idle rough an goes to like 500rpms an almost stalls for like 30 secs then comes back to normal an somtimes when u start driving at like a stop light or etc.. it starts off putting like its going to stall then goes fine what could be the problem?
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