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2002 Honda Civic Questions

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The vehicle has 213,000 miles and has been dealership serviced since new. Timing belt was changed at 120,000 and appears to still be in good shape. The vehicle sat for about a year and a half. When driving it on the highway for an hour or so the Check engine light came on and the vehicle died. Got it to an Auto Zone and code came back P0341 (running extremely rough no power). Changed the Cam Positioning sensor in the parking lot. Drove 20 min and code cleared. Its now been 3,000 miles and the light is back on intermittently (same code). This began in cold temps if that helps. Open to any and all advice...Thanks
How do I know if its the worn front bushings on the rear rear lower control arm or the front compliance bushings that are cracked and worn
Car went into "limp mode" tonight. All my research so far says bad ECU. Alternator was replaced 5 weeks ago.
I was using pliers but the cable seems stretched and they no longer work. I tried using a long screw driver to get to the latch but there is no access to the hood release. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance
Shaprow
have to roll car back to a flat spot, raise hood so sun can shine on engine, let it set for several, days and it will start like nothing happened. I don t always ,like to wait for several days, what do you think.
Constantly. I thought maybe bad gas?? I added additives and premium afterward ...but after clearing out P1129, it reappeared..and still having a lot of problems. Should I replace the MAP sensor vaccum line? Or ?
Engine light is on. Diagnosis= charcoal canister and the shut off valve vent need to be replaced as there is a leak. Priced at 439.00 USD for diagnostics, parts, and labor....what does this mean? Is this an important repair to make? Does it affect the car/performance at all? Help! I can do brakes but NO experience with this....codes were p1457 and p1298 but ELD was already switched out in the driveway at home, (so I hope it's good!)....
the coolant temp switch is working, however i had to bypass it for the fan to operate continually and then it will not stall. the MIL is not working. i got a P0135 but not voltage to the sensor
Air cools quickly, but then cooling drops out. On mild days, it comes and goes. On really hot days, it only gets cool again after the car is left off for a while - at least 30 minutes. No problem with fans, dealer says there is plenty of coolant and everything checks out, but they have not yet driven it to see the problem.
The fan it is not working at any speed nor I hear the compressor clutch engaging. I will check the fuses but I am thinking it is something more serious. There is not cool air or hot air. Defroster is not working either.
Drive is now located somewhere between neutral and drive,D1 and D2 do not light up on the dash at all now
I tried to open my hood for regular maintenance. The hood moved a bit, but no popping release sound nor the hood opening up. The handle end of the release mechanism seems fine, although there doesn't seem to be any spring tension to pull it back to the original, unextended position.
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