2001 Honda Accord Questions

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PO401 exhaust gas recirculation Flow Insuffcient
My car has 211,000 miles. Lately, I notice that when I turn off the car it keep, the engine keep running for 5 plus minutes. Is this a signal of a major problem? I really have not had any problems with the car. Since I've had it I only replaced the timing belt, water pump and just recently the starter.
i thought it might be ing switch, if i hit area of ing switch lights go off. however i have no idea about alarm could it be related
where is the tca relay located? car starts, but runs alittle rough the tca lights comes on in a few min.
So far I have replaced the timing belt; balancer shaft belt both; drive belts; front and rear motor mounts; spark plugs; egr valve and seafoamed the intake system. I replaced the egr valve thinking it would fix this problem because i smoked tested the intake and it was leaking out of the egr. My next step is to remove the idle control valve and check for a clogged screen. at this point I am out of ideas any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 2001 Honda Accord V6 3.0 Vtech and the tcs light and check engine light keep coming on. The TCS light will go off but the check engine light will remain on. I have taken it to have the code read several times and it keeps saying P0171 bank too lean. Diagnostics even read that code when the light goes off. I have tried fuel treatment in the gas tank and I have heard several possibilites as to what it could be...any suggestions on where to begin? Thank you!!
what do I do about replaceing front studs with out taking hub apart ?
I am trying to replace the studs on right front wheel I have noticed that I may have to pull main wheel housing apart to be able to replace studs please help me with this I cant afford a shop !
What is the meaning of this light? What action needs to be taken immediately. Financially, unable to put alot of maintenance into repairs :(
coil packs the wiring harnest on #2 coil has a good hot key ground but the positive coil pack wiring harnest is not pulsating and is overheating the coil pack and thats the only cylinder misfiring the check engine light is on .And also can you jump a wire from the #4 harnest connecter to the #2 to correct that
The dealership charged $200 to trace out a slow drain on the battery, and an additional $235 to replace the whole fuse box. It doesn' seem fair to charge the $200 to find that the fuse box needed replacing. Agree or disagree? Would appreciate any comment.
Jack Bryan
untill i turn the switch off and turn it back on and then I can drive for about 20miles before it happens agin it only starts to blink at idle but continues at any engine rpm
leaking steerin fluid from left boot. think it is only the seal on pinion and rack is ok. no problems while driving it just leaks
replaced outer seal already. didn't work. not slipping or any shifting problems.
Car would not shift out of park one morning. I bypassed with the shift lock and car ran fine other than no break lights or horn. I discovered the STOP fuse (#5) was blown. I replaced the fuse and later that same day, the fuse blew again. I researched online and asked a Honda technician at my local dealer and he assumed it was the brake light switch. I purchased a break light switch and installed it along with yet another fuse. Worked fine to get me home from work and the next morning I had the same problem. I find it safe to guess that there is a short or some wire is grounding. I have checked all the bulbs and their wires/connections in the trunk, wires/connections under my dash, and have not located any burns, tears, disconnects, touching wires or anything in that sense. If I were to take it to a mechanic or an electrician, are there any special tools they use I might have access to myself? If possible, I would like to attempt to diagnose and locate the short myself to avoid substantial labor and repair costs I cannot afford at this time.
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