2001 Honda Accord Questions

Get answers to questions about your 2001 Honda Accord at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

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what do I do about replaceing front studs with out taking hub apart ?

I am trying to replace the studs on right front wheel I have noticed that I may have to pull main wheel housing apart to be able to replace studs please help me with this I cant afford a shop !

What is the meaning of this light? What action needs to be taken immediately. Financially, unable to put alot of maintenance into repairs :(

coil packs the wiring harnest on #2 coil has a good hot key ground but the positive coil pack wiring harnest is not pulsating and is overheating the coil pack and thats the only cylinder misfiring the check engine light is on .And also can you jump a wire from the #4 harnest connecter to the #2 to correct that

The dealership charged $200 to trace out a slow drain on the battery, and an additional $235 to replace the whole fuse box. It doesn' seem fair to charge the $200 to find that the fuse box needed replacing. Agree or disagree? Would appreciate any comment.
Jack Bryan

untill i turn the switch off and turn it back on and then I can drive for about 20miles before it happens agin it only starts to blink at idle but continues at any engine rpm

leaking steerin fluid from left boot. think it is only the seal on pinion and rack is ok. no problems while driving it just leaks

replaced outer seal already. didn't work. not slipping or any shifting problems.

Car would not shift out of park one morning. I bypassed with the shift lock and car ran fine other than no break lights or horn. I discovered the STOP fuse (#5) was blown. I replaced the fuse and later that same day, the fuse blew again. I researched online and asked a Honda technician at my local dealer and he assumed it was the brake light switch. I purchased a break light switch and installed it along with yet another fuse. Worked fine to get me home from work and the next morning I had the same problem. I find it safe to guess that there is a short or some wire is grounding. I have checked all the bulbs and their wires/connections in the trunk, wires/connections under my dash, and have not located any burns, tears, disconnects, touching wires or anything in that sense. If I were to take it to a mechanic or an electrician, are there any special tools they use I might have access to myself? If possible, I would like to attempt to diagnose and locate the short myself to avoid substantial labor and repair costs I cannot afford at this time.

This has been an intermittent problem that is becoming more prevalent. Twice this past week after work at 5pm, so it has sat all day, it would start and then quit, start and quit and then crank, but not turn over. No clicking. Battery is new. Let it sit for awhile and then it starts. Started right up today.

Dip Stick has two smal hole near the end. Is the proper oil lever any place between the holes?

is a special tool needed to replace the oil pump seal? how to remove the harmonic balancer

The TCS and engine light will come on for 4 to 6 days then go out.Then when I'am on the road the light will come on when I slow down or stop,when driving on the highway.

check engine light yesterday, oil light today.

driving at 50 mph car downshifts into lower gear