Close

1997 Honda Accord Questions

Get answers to questions about your 1997 Honda Accord at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

Refine by vehicle
×
Choose your vehicle
No car image 94a1663db56199c5353592009e34aaa51078a2469bed068bb8d6f0ba43accf97
Get a Repair Estimate
Guaranteed by certified locations nationwide. Learn more
RepairPal estimates are guaranteed at over 1,700 quality certified locations nationwide. Learn more
274
questions

I have a noise in the drive tran sometime like a klunking sound

i stated in here before i was wondering again maybe if my problem was in my electrical. i wasnt quite right on the last statement i made, (it had been about a year since i drove the car)i said everything but high drove. i dont have reverse or drive or overdrive. i do have low and second and they seem to work fine, doesnt feel like any slippage at all, but does take a bit before it goes into them. im the one that said when i last drove it it was running fine and then parked for about an hour or so and when i drove it again it wouldnt shift into drive. fluid not dirty or burnt. changed two of the single selenoids on it and didnt help, but was now thinking of changing the two that were together, but checked them with an ohm meter and they were reading within specs. was wondering if maybe could be a problem in the wiring, or maybe a speed sensor or something to the like, cant really afford a garage, if its some6thing that i can do myself.i may be wrong, but refuse to think that its in the transmission itself. i may be wrong but have never seen one go out like that before. any help would be appreciated. steve

my problem is is that my trans. was working fine and the next time i started and drove it, it wouldnt shift into third,i changed the fluid and all to no avail. even though my fluid didnt have any shaving or smell burnt at all. i tried to change the two single selenoids on the transmission to no avail, but was wondering if maybe it had someting to do with the lock in selenoid or shifting selenoid. i cant help but think its an electrical failure the way it had quit. no problem with tranny slippng or the like before. i checked the two latter selenoids i was talking of that i didnt replace and they both seemed to be engaging when i put a hot wire to them. the question i guess im trying to ask is that in the cars electrical system what is it that put the spark to it or makes the wires light up going to them. does the car have to be rolling at a certain speed or does tach have to be revved up. etc. for there to be a spark going to them to make them kick in, just in case there may be a fault or short in my wiring. (or if this could even be the problem?). but like i said, i had no slippage, no smell of burnt or dirty fluid. its like it just happened all at once. i know hondas of this year have had tranny problems. but nothing i read seemed to apply. any thing that you could tell me would be greatly appreciated


















I corrected codes 301 302 with plugs. rotor button, plug wires, rotor cap thé car still misfiring. pût black on testing machine. Showed same codes. rechecked. plug. sites for good convection and thé light. and codes did not reappear. i drive à few miles light comes. black on car act thé same why

timing belt went while driving car on highway. Belt ,water pump and replacement belt changed. Timing is set correctly, , ignition coil replace but car will crank but will not start up. Wondering if internal engine damage was done. Is there any way to find his out.

Lube place changed my oil and 180 miles later it had lost 3 qts. Brought back and they "discovered" crack in oil pan about 3 inches long starting from outer ridge of bung hole. Stated that it was NOT done by them. Pan is not rusted at all, They repaired it with JB weld but I dont trust it. How much would it cost to replace oil pan, are they available new for my 1997 and Could there be any other explanation than they over torqued the bolt and cracked the bunghole?

I have been having problems with a the idle ever since I accidently started the car with the MAP sensor unplugged. Ever since then the car has idled very low, just over 500 rpm. I bought a new MAP sensor, cleared the error code and did a "idle learn", I cleaned the idle air control valve because it has a very rough idle. Now the car has started to stall when I put the car in park and turn the AC off. PLEASE HELP!!!

When I'm driving the temp will start going up as soon as I stop somewhere. And it will also start rising if going up a hill. But when I start driving normal again the temp gauge will go back Down then up and back and forth. Sometimes it'll even say it's in the red then randomly go right back to the middle. When I look under the hood the car never seems over heated.