1997 Honda Accord Questions

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Ok. I work for GM and do this stuff for a living. I have access to ALLDATA. The car came to me running. It needs work, and we wanted to know if the engine was any good before putting money into it. I did a basic compression test. All cylinders between 100-110. Put the plugs back in and wires back on. Now it cranks and won't start. Got fuel, but no spark from coil wire to dist cap. Fuses are good. Tested coil. Primary side failed at 58 ohms (spec is 0.3 - 0.4) Replaced coil. Same issue. Tested ICM. It failed. Replaced Ignition Control Module. Same issue. Swapped whole distributor (I had one off an old motor). Same problem. Put new ICM in the swapped distributor. Same problem. Verified wiring between ECM pin A20 to ICM (green/yellow wire). Verified B+ voltage between ECM pins B5 and A26 (and 7.5A Starter Signal Fuse) during cranking. With a (Snap On) scanner on it, I see RPM (Engine Speed) signal during cranking. Coil wire tests at 1040 Ohms. Started over. Retested coil- now tests good. Retested ICM - tests bad again. Now I'm stuck. I have now tried 3 different ICM(s) and it keeps testing bad. Either my DVOM or ALLDATA is wrong. Or I truly have 3 (including 1 new) bad ICM(s). Any ideas/tests/help would be appreciated.
While driving went to shift from second gear to third and it wouldn't go. Now the car acts like it is stuck in neautral. It will not catch any gears at all. When I shifted the gears didn't grind when I tried to go from second to third. But did have a smell from car when this happened but clutch pedal still has some firmness.
The car has 260,000 miles on it and recently had it's brake pads replaced.
I have a noise in the drive tran sometime like a klunking sound
i stated in here before i was wondering again maybe if my problem was in my electrical. i wasnt quite right on the last statement i made, (it had been about a year since i drove the car)i said everything but high drove. i dont have reverse or drive or overdrive. i do have low and second and they seem to work fine, doesnt feel like any slippage at all, but does take a bit before it goes into them. im the one that said when i last drove it it was running fine and then parked for about an hour or so and when i drove it again it wouldnt shift into drive. fluid not dirty or burnt. changed two of the single selenoids on it and didnt help, but was now thinking of changing the two that were together, but checked them with an ohm meter and they were reading within specs. was wondering if maybe could be a problem in the wiring, or maybe a speed sensor or something to the like, cant really afford a garage, if its some6thing that i can do myself.i may be wrong, but refuse to think that its in the transmission itself. i may be wrong but have never seen one go out like that before. any help would be appreciated. steve
my problem is is that my trans. was working fine and the next time i started and drove it, it wouldnt shift into third,i changed the fluid and all to no avail. even though my fluid didnt have any shaving or smell burnt at all. i tried to change the two single selenoids on the transmission to no avail, but was wondering if maybe it had someting to do with the lock in selenoid or shifting selenoid. i cant help but think its an electrical failure the way it had quit. no problem with tranny slippng or the like before. i checked the two latter selenoids i was talking of that i didnt replace and they both seemed to be engaging when i put a hot wire to them. the question i guess im trying to ask is that in the cars electrical system what is it that put the spark to it or makes the wires light up going to them. does the car have to be rolling at a certain speed or does tach have to be revved up. etc. for there to be a spark going to them to make them kick in, just in case there may be a fault or short in my wiring. (or if this could even be the problem?). but like i said, i had no slippage, no smell of burnt or dirty fluid. its like it just happened all at once. i know hondas of this year have had tranny problems. but nothing i read seemed to apply. any thing that you could tell me would be greatly appreciated

I corrected codes 301 302 with plugs. rotor button, plug wires, rotor cap thé car still misfiring. pût black on testing machine. Showed same codes. rechecked. plug. sites for good convection and thé light. and codes did not reappear. i drive à few miles light comes. black on car act thé same why
timing belt went while driving car on highway. Belt ,water pump and replacement belt changed. Timing is set correctly, , ignition coil replace but car will crank but will not start up. Wondering if internal engine damage was done. Is there any way to find his out.
Lube place changed my oil and 180 miles later it had lost 3 qts. Brought back and they "discovered" crack in oil pan about 3 inches long starting from outer ridge of bung hole. Stated that it was NOT done by them. Pan is not rusted at all, They repaired it with JB weld but I dont trust it. How much would it cost to replace oil pan, are they available new for my 1997 and Could there be any other explanation than they over torqued the bolt and cracked the bunghole?
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