1995 Honda Accord Questions

Get answers to questions about your 1995 Honda Accord at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

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With the heater core leaking antifreeze onto the floor board

At times when I push on the break they go all the way down . I was told the lines have air and I have to bleed them.

When I turn to the right it rubs . there's only a 3 finger width before it rubs permanently. It's not the size of the tire . It's rubbed the plastic off because when I turn . can you tell me what the problem can be?

When I put it in gear, its does not move. Still has power an revs up, when I put it in neutral an let my foot off the clutch it grabbs an wants to go a Lil. It doesn't just idle. In either gears 1,2,3,4,5 it don't move an will shut off when clutch is let out. Neutral wants to move but will stall also. All linkage is okay, an slave cylinder is bled an working. Reverse don't work either.
What's your opinions ?

3-4Yrs only in winter white exhaust smoke. Put in Blue Devil seal for HEAD GASKET. Still smoke can I try again something different other than blue devil? Or is there somthing else I can check makes white smoke?

Automatic transmission

A humming/whining noise that coincides with the acceleration & deceleration of the engine while driving. The sound is just as loud as the engine. This has been going on for about a month. Thought it was low oil. But oil is at proper level.

honda seems to be riding and finding all bumps in road

Assuming its its stock 98 accord ex coupe 2.3L auto 4 cyl

Car has been out in the FL heat for years..I give in two nights in a garage and it won't start. Starter switch works in accessory position, no blown fuses or obviously bad wiring. any guesses on anything else that might prevent starting or even turning over the engine?

I put another distributor, ignition switch and still having problems. What could it be...

When the car was used regularly, while driving on the freeway, occasionally the tachometer would bounce around from 5K RPM to 0 and then stay at 0, even though the car was running fine. Eventually, the tachometer would return to normal operation.

Last year the car would fire and run for about 2 minutes then die. Then the car would fire and run for about 30 seconds, then die. Then the car may fire one more time for about 5 seconds, then die. I had the car towed to the house, where it has sat.

Last week after replacing the battery, the car fired right up, but died after about 2 minutes. Then the car fired and ran for about 30 seconds then died. After the engine stopped, the CEL was on and about 10 seconds later the D4 light began flashing repeatedly.

I turned off the key, waited about 10 seconds, then turned the key to position II. The CEL stayed on; I never heard the fuel pump relay engage; about 10 seconds after turning the key the D4 began flashing repeatedly again. The car will turn over at this point, but will not fire. The main relay and ignition coil have been replaced.