2003 GMC Yukon Denali Questions

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Yesterday I unhooked my terminal re-hooked it back up drove across town my truck shut down. It will crank over start for a second but will shut down as if it’s not getting gas are that it is empty. When I know there is gas in it. We unhooked the breather box and sprayed starting fluid directly into the car and it will stay running if it is fed consistently. What could be wrong with it? Is it a fuel pump issue I feel pressure issue or this GM security system issue?
I don't know where the fuel pressure release is or where th e fuel filter is located. 2003 Yukon Denali v8 6.0
Replaced master window switch in 2003 GMC Yukon Denali and doesn’t work is programming required
when i put it in any gear it makes a bad metal on metal rotating noise and i dont know what it is. i want to know what it is. when in gear it does the noise ad doesnt move at all but when in park or in neutral it stops. please let me know.
It just started when my wife came home. There were no previous issues.

Water dripping (at first) now pours from lower left and right corners of AC console (control for rear passengers). Have had sunroof & windshield drains checked - no clogs. I Read that quite a few owners of same make/model car had same issue. Turns out was leaking per bad seal of Onstar Antennae that sits right atop driver's head to the left of the sunroof (I've never used or even opened the sunroof).

I’ll be taking car in next week for diagnostic to ensure it's not a bad seal on the windshield or sunroof. Costs about $150 to diagnose and R&R the windshield. If a bad seal, may be able to fill in at leaking area but most likely will have to R&R windshield... not a big issue except the auto glass shop does not guarantee against glass breakage & then I’d be out major $$.

If not the windshield, next have to take car to another body shop and leave it to check if there’s a bad seal on sunroof. $50 initial diagnostic fee to start off with at that shop and rep states “and then we go from there.” That sounds to me like $$$. Both windshield and sunroof have been checked for clogged drains. No clogs. No glass breaks or cracks. Nothing found.

If it is a leak around the Onstar antennae, dealership quoted $600 to diagnose and replace with new unit. This seems ridiculous as I see many shark fin antennas on eBay Motors and most are under $50. There are so many different OEM shark fin option though, and I need to know whether this can be replaced with a generic shark fin antennae or must it be an OEM part? I read that Onstar was aware of the problem and provided replacement antennas. Unfortunately I don't think that's an option now as my dad cancelled the Service due to high cost and little if any use in 12 years.
The first time, the leak was just a few very slow drops, and the 2nd time a bit more...but the last 2 times pretty forceful - like turning on a faucet for a bit. Fortunately it drips (or sometimes pours) right onto the plastic center driver console where the cup holders are located so no wet carpet thus far.

Until last August I drove a 2004 Town & Country... Loved that car, but it went to salvage after my one and only accident in near 30 years! So since my mother didn’t need an extra vehicle after my father passed away in March, I bought this Denali from her for $4500. A couple weeks ago my mechanic said a customer was asking to buy my car and what was I asking? The shop tech asked if I’d take $6K. Next day he wanted to know lowest acceptable price (I just I blurted out $5,895. He then asked if I would consider $5300 with him paying for detail cleaning if I would ID and repair the water leak. I said I’d consider it but would take me awhile to get repair estimates. A local dealer offered me $3,000 (after a quick inspection and unaware of the leak) whether I buy a new/used car from them or not. I can’t figure out why this guy offered $5300 without a test drive. Did he know something I don’t?

Has anyone run across this issue with water leaking from this particular area? I’d appreciate advice on whether it’s more likely a bad seal in the Windshield or sunroof or around the Onstar antennae.

There are two other issues I’ve noticed with this vehicle but they’ve not been happening enough to warrant diagnostics. Occasionally, I’ll hear what sounds like an intermittent train whistle muffled and heard from afar- when accelerating or just driving along. Then on a rarer occasion, when I turn off the car, the floorboard under my feet continues to vibrate as though I’ve not turned off the car - no sound from the engine, however. Just how long would you think I can expect this vehicle to last before needing major repair? Is 12.5 mpg good for this vehicle? Also, I’m no a math whiz so I’d welcome opinions as to whether I should just get this current leak issue ID’d/repaired and keep this vehicle?

Thank you all in advance! I really appreciate any and all assistance.
I would like to know how often mileage wise to change the transmission fluid in my 2004 Yukon Denali. I am at 206k and I am unsure when the last time it was serviced for that.
Unplugged switch and checked for shorted or bad wires, still runs. Any suggestions?
It comes on and off while driving and while driving you a noise that sounds like the brekes are scrubbing
Changed the battery in the remote one it will only open the drivers door
the defrost comes on but wont blow if u change to feet or anything els the light flash then all will shut off or do nothing at all not sure if its electrical or something with the blower motor . the back heat does blows but only cold the the truck is throwing a miss fire at 4 and a o2 sensor
I took out my instrument cluster to check some issues and put it back in. Since then I can't start the car. I had the starter tested and it is fine. When I turn the key the starter doesn't even engage so it seems to be before the starter in the starting process. I hear a single click when turning the key to the on position. Then when I turn the key fully to start it I hear a single click again and nothing else. The click comes from under the passenger side dash under the glove box. Since the starter is fine I assume it is some part before the starter. I have been told it could be the ignition switch or ignition control module. Are there any other parts to consider between ignition and starter? Did I screw something up taking out the cluster? If so, I can't imagine what. I had to adjust the steering wheel to the lowest position to get the dash panel off but other than that the steering column wasn't touched and I didn't even touch any wires coming from the column/ignition. All of that said, I just keep thinking it can't just be coincidence that it won't start since I did that.
Not running hot or cutting off it's not leaking from my oil pan gasket or oil plug it's by the oil alignment need help jus getting a burn smell
After spending $650 on new front bearings, my truck now has either a transfer case issue or a differential bearing issue. I am a bit scared as to what this is going to cost me. Any input?
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