2005 Ford Mustang GT Questions

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Fault code was p0340 replaced camshaft position sensor and plug on right bank and cleared the code. Battery is new and alternator output is between 13.5 and 14.5 volts ac output was .031 milliamps drove approx. 30 miles without check engine light, stopped vehicle and restarted it a hair and check engine light is back on again. Does it need to complete a longer drive cycle or several before the fault will clear
If you clear codes, start car, let set until it comes out of open loop, turn car off, restart MIL comes on and codes are present again. Code reader shows 39 psi fuel pressure at idle and 41 psi when giving it some gas and fuel long trim 25% for both banks. I have a code reader that shows live data but I'm not familiar on what to look for. Thanks in advance.
after driving 20 minutes or so or if i let the casr idele for 5 to 10 minutes the idle gets VERY ROUGH and engine starts clatteing and wants to die.. If i give it gas it will rev up and straighten out until i come to a stop again . It will start all over... I was told that the 2 cam or kam sensors are bad. would this cause this problem? I read where just because a code says the sensors are bad that it could also be other things such as drive belt or timing ? also when i got the car it had a slight ticking in the motor it has rapidly turned into a pretty noisy tapping like a loose rodcker arm sound. I recently had an oik change thats when i was told the sensors were out, could these sensors have anything to do with the noisy tapping.. ? it is REALLY Bad when I first start the engine before the oil is fully circulating.. The engine revs high upon starting for about 10 seconds and then it idles down to normal.. engine light is on....also. recently the battery in the remote door lock and unlock went weak or dead and the car would not go into drive, a friend showed me the bypass lever . I replaced the batery and that solved the problem but i noticed right away that the brake pedal is extremely soft since that incident. someone told me to disconnect the ground cable for 15 minutes and the computer would reset and solve that problem. I havent done it yet . would that do anything beneficial?
I recently had my Mustang's clutch replaced and when you start out in 1st gear, the car is slow to accelerate. Even when you try to floor it just slowly climbs to a higher RPM. When I originally bought it, you could floor it and the tires would spin. Is it possible I got a bad clutch installed?
It's been a problem for a few years. Everytime it rains, I see a puddle of water in the back seat of my car and the floorboard is wet. The top has no visible holes or cracks and it still looks new.
Hello Car gurus.
I have a Ford Mustang 2005 with 17,000 original miles on it. Last year I noticed that the engine light came on after taking it to get the wheel alignment done. I checked it on one of those hand held OB11 reader unit, and it popped up as P0420 and a pending P0430 code.
Many people I ask are saying it's the CAT that may have gone bad, but is that possible since I barley drive the car? There were some modifications done, including adding in a performance chip, plus changing out the headers, and the air filter.
However, those mods I mentioned were done over 7 years ago, and no issues with check engine lights, or passing the emissions since.
Can someone let me know if it's possible that the CAT could go bad in 10 years at 17,000 miles? Should I just change out the O2 sensors for the bank 1?
The readiness monitors seems to all be showing green, but since it's throwing this code I think it may not pass emissions.

How to proceed....?
Car stopped and wldnt start until I replaced the GPS now it won't ideal correctly nor receive gas when I mash on the peddle
Recently my engine began to shake and the engine light turned on. I soon discovered 6 of the 8 spark plug coils had gone bad. I replaced all eight but still the car shakes a bit while parked or stopped. I took it back and they suggested fuel cleaner.For the most part it has helped. My engine sounds good, moves great, and getting better gas mileage, but still there is a slight "kick" and shake when I am stopped and feel it more in park. I'm not sure what could be wrong.
Put key in door, windows come down & won't go back up, locks don't click, lose radio, headlights, turn signals, air conditioning/heat/defroster. Have installed new ignition switch & new relay device and have 2 new keys. Also trouble shifting out of park when starting car. Car starts and runs fine, battery & alternator fully charged.
I need to pass my CT state emissions test for my registration, but 4 readiness monitors are not engaging. It's mostly garage kept, has 14,000 miles, has a big K&G cold air intake, and the previous owner had a super chip tuner installed. Recently the battery died so I was told I needed to drive it more so that the CAT, O2 sensor, and EVAP, etc... can engage. After driving over 200 miles so far no dice.
1. What's the exact/proper drive cycle for a 2005 Mustang GT so that the monitors will come alive?
2. Do would suppose the super chip have disabled the monitors in anyway?
3. If I can't get the monitors to engage, would I need to reverse the tune back to the factory tune?

Thanks in advance

Mustang Suzie
Had a shop check code and said it was timming problem and may be caused by using wrong oil filter and that my engine might have to be replaced. other than tapping noise engine runs fine. i feel no loss of perfomance and have put several miles on it since and have not babied it. replace entire engine? really.
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