1993 Ford F-350 Questions

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My clutch only works a few inches from the floor should I bleed master cylinder and how I'ls that done on my 93 f350 5.8 manual transmission
I've got a 1993 Ford F350 with a 5.8 manual transmission and I bought it nonrunning with a loud clicking sound which indicates starter to me so I replace the starter with rebuilt One it went on fine truck started up and ran but had a loud grinding knocking pinging noise coming from the bell housing area after starting at maybe two or three times and running it In idle for a few min I parked the truck came back the next day go to fire it up it turns over acting like basically it's out of gas never does start up eventually goes back to it's clicking sound now from what I've researched it sounding to me like the starter is not disengaging and took a lot of physical abuse during the moments I was running it now the people that bought it from had a button start on it by speaker wire running to the selinoid switch with basically what I would call it like a free turning ignition where you could put the key in there or not but if you put the key in there it would work and crank up So u could start it with either the button or key why at the time I was not sure but have should've asked more questions about that and why the start button was even needed. When I did come back the next day to crank the truck only the pushbutton would start the truck. the ignition switch itself that you put the KEY in would not work to crank the truck anymore so I'm kind of thinking that after putting these things together as far as symptoms and causes of symptoms I'm now thinking that somehow between that pushbutton start having speaker wire connecting it to the selinoid switch and the original ignition switch key cylinder itself still operational that the starter is not disengaging after start up and killing my new starter because it looked like from the space that I could see with a flashlight that the inside of the starter was not Intacked so would you say that I need to shim the starter check the flywheel for cracks check the flower bulbs for tightness all the above and would you say that I need to shim the starter check to flywheel for cracks check the flywheel bolts for tightness all the above or would you think it's possibly because there is the original ignition switch with key still operational and there is a secondary push button start switch with speaker wire running to selinoid operational as well that's causing the starter to not disengage all the way or at all? Also could it need to be shimmed?
Belt comes off , replaced New tensioner , Belt Guide, Idler Pulley. won't line up in the tensioner. I ride on 1/2 the tens. pulley. Ford said no recall. ?
I want to take the cab off of my 93 f-350 and put it on my 88 f-450 but the f-450 had a diesel and the f350 is a gas 460 i was wonding if the cab swap will beable to get leagel
I cannot find a replacement tank it is plastic and I cannot find a replacement .If you look it up it shows a different tank this is a special tank dimensions are 14 1/2 X 17 W X 27L. Part number is VFOTA-9104- CA M73 DC.. Do yo know where I can get one???
could it be the clutch or something internal?
misfire and quitting during acceleration when warm
Oil changed less than 4000 miles
I'm wondering which fan clutch I should be using for my truck it has a.c.Pressure builds in the head pressure. Thanks for your help Roy. I have a new condenser. I'm really stumped what to do.
I replaced the compreser and conensor. Since doing so the temperature is fine when driving but on idle the head pressure raises. What is causing this? I don't want to drive the truck an use the air until I correct this problem
I have the '93, 7.3l non turbo diesel and when temps get above 70degF and my engine is warmed up, I shut the truck off but unable to restart if it sets for more then 15 min or so. I pour a little water over the top of the injection pump while the key is in the ON position and truck starts back up and runs fine. It has been suggested that the fuel shutoff solenoid is sticking because of the excess heat around the engine after shutdown and the carbon buildup on the solenoid plunger not allowing it to open and allow fuel to the pump! My main question at this point is- Where is the shutoff solenoid located so I can disassemble and clean?
my truck wont start
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