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2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac Questions

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Starter replacement
I have my ford explorer 2001 sport in my garage it was running before it was in the garage . now I lost my key but I have duplicate with no chips it can only turn on but can't start the engine . I bring it to the dealer .they cut the new key and tried to program it but unfortunately they were not able to fix it they said it not communicating to the system.My question can I bypass the computer and make separate switch or any suggestion you can recommend.The ford services charge me every other option they made. Thanks a lot Dan
My engine stalls when idling after it warms up. It will also stall when we sleep down or stop at a light or stop sign. We have replaced many parts. It doesn't have the power like it should. Not sure what else could be the problem, please help!
What seems to make the problem better or worse? Idling or slow speeds, warm engine
How long have you had this problem? Few weeks
We have changed MAF, spark plugs and wires, O2 sensors, fuel filter and tried fuel injector cleaner.

When you start it you have to hit the gas constantly or it will stall, you can't stop at res lights or stop signs without holding the brake and keeps the gas on also or it will stall. It starts right back up after it stalls. It runs fine once you get moving, it has some loss of power.
What seems to make the problem better or worse? Stopping or driving at low speeds
How long have you had this problem? A few weeks
We have replaced spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, 02 sensors and the mass air flow sensor. It idles rough or sometimes won't idle at all. It will stall if you don't keep gas on. It sputters a lot. After replacing the mass air flow sensor we now have an air intake code showing up. What could cause the truck to lose power on hills?
What seems to make the problem better or worse? Runs fine on flat inclines make it worse
How long have you had this problem? About 2 months
on occasion, all of a sudden the engine will not exceed 3000 rpm and the vehicle will not go above 30 mph and will begin to buck and sputter. already installed new plugs and wires. runs ok under 3000 rpm then will suddenly start working ok again. very scary on the highway when this happens.
Nothing happens when it goes from Neutral to Drive or Reverse. It is like it does not engage. It has a dip stick. Where is the fill cap located?
I turn the key over it doesn't do anything the battery has fire to it I'm wondering if it's the starter
my truck has had the CEL on for a while but seemed to run ok, until last week, it started to shake and trying to die while being driven, mechanic said it was due to the #2 plug not burning all the fuel and it was dumping into the catalytic converter, so I started changing them out, first the drivers side, I started it to ensure all plug wires were on, all ok on that side, changed plugs 1&2 on passenger side and the truck runs rough, and I see ford used 2 different numbered plugs, would this be my problem, and if so what plug numbers do I use? I'm using Autolite APP103 to replace Motorcraft AGRF 22P & 22PG are these the right plugs?
left the truck sitting for about four months
The switch has 1- 4 only blows on nr 4
could it be intake gasket
sometimes when cranking white smoke comes from exhaust. No reading from temp gauge when driving but smells like antifreeze. Not smoking during driving. Heater also barley working.
Could it be my neutral safety switch
Also when driving the truck let's say I come to a red light or a stop sign the truck feels like it's about to stall and the engine will sputter for a few seconds and then recover. I just had the fuel pump and filter replaced about 2 weeks ago so I don't know what could be causing these moments where it feels like the truck will stall! I can have it in drive and be stopped and I can feel the engine sputter sometimes
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