2000 Ford Escort Questions

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My rmps are bouncy. Cars in park kinda jerky, like the engines working hard. When I push on my breaks is sounds like it's gonna die.. My service engine soon is on. Help. I'm a college kid away from home
I'm having problems with my idler pulley bolt breaking I replaced that same bolt 3 times since buying the car in August, I replaced the tensioner and now the check engine light is on.
I know where the sensor is, on top of the trans mission! Is there a fuse for it and where is IT ? and if i disconnect the sensor what should the voltage be ?
have a 5-speed that won't go into gear if I take the full(3/4?) circle off-ramp at any more than 20 mph. I have to pull off the road, turn it off and wait, and after a few minutes it goes back into gear.The clutch is a little thin, 275,000 miles on it.
Car was running good, then it starting missing on these two cylinders. I have checked plugs, wires, coil. I can spray a little shot of carb cleaner into the air cleaner and it will run better.
Only the Service engine light comes on, but nothing else. When the key is out, the service engine light stays dim. Starter does not even engage, no dome, radio, dash, hazards, NOTHING. Tried to jump it just to see and nothing. I added AC Coolant about two weeks ago and the only other issue with the car is the gear shift. I have to stick a straw through a emergency hole next to the gear shift to engage the release mechanism so the button on the shifter will press in and change gears but I don't see how either would effect the entire electrical system. I'm a full time student and on a strict budget so I can't take it anywhere to have it checked. NEVER have had a issue with electrical system before. It has always been a great running car since coming off the lot. I did one time about two years ago pull the radio out of the dash just to see how easy it would be but I never disconnected any wires. Would it have something to do with the Ignition Switch? I thought if it was bad it would not send a signal out but that doesn't count for the dome or headlights not even working. I did notice the my gas gauge looks like it is ping as far as possible WAY passed the normal full mark if that makes a difference.
I've changed timing belt, spark plugs, spark plug wireset, battery, alternator, idle air control valve, gasket valve covers, cam position sensor and crank position sensor. It still throws out the p0340 code even after changing the sensors
obd code is p0133. any idea on how to fix this. the o2 sensor is only a year old.
Runs fine with gas poured n intake till it burns up
in Nashville, TN because it wasn't ready. My battery died and a new one was replaced and I didn't drive much after that due to a broken ankle. I need to know how much I need to drive for all "readiness monitors" at be set to ready before I return for another emission test. Thank you.
The vehicle was making the noise and it did it today I lost all power and the vehicle stalled and will not re fire. It cranks but won't fire and when I am cranking it you can here it pop a little in the tail pipe. The noise came when the vehicle was in gear and warmed up if I let off the gas it quit or if I put it in neutral it quit.I haven't lost any oil or antifreeze, both levels are fine. I just changed the oil Friday and used SAE 10 W 40 because the car has 117,000 miles on it.
This occurs when the vehicle is warm and in gear. It does not do it in neutral or when I let off the gas while in gear.
oes a pcm run the a/c on a 2000 ford escort and would a 1997 work on a 2000
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