2000 Ford Escort Questions

Get answers to questions about your 2000 Ford Escort at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

Refine by vehicle
Choose your vehicle
No car image 94a1663db56199c5353592009e34aaa51078a2469bed068bb8d6f0ba43accf97
Get a Repair Estimate
Guaranteed by certified locations nationwide. Learn more
RepairPal estimates are guaranteed at over 1,700 quality certified locations nationwide. Learn more

car is dead, no lights or power

My speedometer would work sometimes and others not until the other day when I smelled rubber burning, only for a second then soon after it quit working entirely. Someone suggested it could be a fuse but I'm not sure if it's inside the car or under the hood. Thank you

I put a used radio in and it still doesn't work.

I had gotten my car looked at recently, and was told that the problem was my alternator. I bought a new one, put it in, and it's still taking a while to turn over. Sometimes, it will take so long to turnover, it turns on for a second and dies, but starts right up after I turn it over again. It's only done that a few times though. I don't know if any of this is linked but, my left blinker also randomly flashes quickly, but sometimes it doesn't.

I have a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2. Recently, I noticed the car temp was
running a bit high. As I watched it while driving, the temp was slowly
climbing, especially during stop and go traffic. I figured out the fan wasn't
coming on, and replaced the Temp Gauge Sensor and the ECT Sensor.
After doing this, the fan comes on, but the car still runs hotter than normal.
When I start my car, the temp is at about 45% of the temperature gauge;
however, when I start driving, the temp climbs to about 65-75% of the temp
gauge but no higher. When I stop at a light or something, the temp drops
back down to about 50% (depending on how long I stop), and when I drive
again, it climbs back up to 65-75% of the way.

After switching one or both sensors, the check engine light came on with a
code of P0117...dealing with the ECT sensor having low voltage due to high
temperatures. I am unsure of what the problem is at this point. I can not
imagine why the car is running hot, but not increasing forever. It only
increases to about 65-75% of thew way. When I first turn on my car, it
jumps immediately to about halfway too, shouldn't it slowly be warming up
to that?

Any thoughts?

Car has set for a while put new battery in making humming noise won't start

the fluid leak look's like it's dripping out from under the pump

I was pulling out of the drive way and the car shut off, I tried turning it back on and it turned over but would not start. I let it sit for 10 minutes and started it up again and it started right up but I heard a rapid knocking coming from either near the alternator or the center of the engine. Later that night I bought oil and the next day I changed my oil. Still had the rapid knocking but then it only happened when I let it sit at a light/stop sign. Later that night I was coming home from work and the car shut off and wouldn't start, had to push it home. Now everytime I start it, it will turn over but not start

When I'm driving up hills the light starts blinking until I return to flat surface and the rpms go up to 3or higher,and when I turn on my heat the engine starts running really ruff.

My rmps are bouncy. Cars in park kinda jerky, like the engines working hard. When I push on my breaks is sounds like it's gonna die.. My service engine soon is on. Help. I'm a college kid away from home

I'm having problems with my idler pulley bolt breaking I replaced that same bolt 3 times since buying the car in August, I replaced the tensioner and now the check engine light is on.