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Q: Fix for NO PRESSURE AT FUEL RAIL??? on 1998 Lincoln Continental

I changed out the radiator and alternator on my 1998 Lincoln Continental with 220k on it, and now I have no pressure at the fuel rail. I see lots of posts of people with the same issue and replacing the pump did not solve the problem. HELP!!
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Sorry about the delay. A lot has been going on here.

The fuse was good. I used a 12v test light and had 12 volts at the Inertia switch (white wire I believe - its been a while), then traced that back to the module in the trunk. I believe it was a black wire with yellow stripe(?) headed down to the fuel pump from the module. It tested positive with the 12v test light but that thing is just an LED. I wanted to be sure it had enough current to run the pump so I used a used headlight bulb and some wiring to make a12v test light that would need a lot more current to make it shine bright. It worked. I made sure to test it not only when I turned the key on (I got the requisite 12v for about a 2 second duration, then nothing), but I also cranked it and it re-lit the bulb as hoped, so I knew the control module was sending the right voltage and current for the right duration's. I then disconnected the fuel line at the filter and cranked the engine just to see if I was getting any fuel at all. Nothing. So I proceeded to drain the tank, raise the car up, and drop the tank. I snapped one of the old brittle plastic clips on the hose near the fuel filter but fortunately the FRAM replacement filter I bought came with a clip. I purchased the Airtex fuel pump for this car without the rest of the module. I pulled out the entire fuel module and replaced just the pump, and put the module back in. I re-used the gasket on the tank because the gasket that came with the pump kit was too small and would not seat correctly. I tried stretching it a bit but no go. The old one was in good shape so I think I'll be fine. I then put the tank back in place, added some gas, and turned the key. I heard the distinct sound of the fuel pump for two seconds, which I had never really took notice of before. I cycled it a few times to build pressure in the fuel rail, and it started right up. So for about $120 I was able to resolve the problem. I got it done just before Thanksgiving and took it on a 1000 mile round trip to visit relatives for the holiday. No problems with the fuel pump, but my new alternator seems flaky. Apparently when the car spends some time idling, the alternator light on the dash eventually comes on. It's almost exclusively at night, or near dusk. I checked and sure enough its not charging. The battery is new. The fins in the rear of the alternator are turning so I thick the pulley clutch is working unless I'm missing something . There is magnetism in the pulley while running so the field control seems to be ok. I tested that by placing a screw driver tip near the pulley while running. The problem has been intermittent. It left me stuck on the side of the road the first night of my trip but was fine the next morning. After that it happened one night on the trip but went away after I let the car sit for a short while. I then drove it 400 miles or more without an issue, and then some local night driving once I got home. It just acted up again tonight. Maybe it just gets warm under the hood while idling and that exposes a contact problem in the alternator. I'm just guessing. I'm going to contact the supplier to see if they will replace it. I also had the Check Transmission warning come on the computer display readout while climbing some mountains on the way home. I took it easy and let it cool off a bit and it stayed off after a reset. If it's not one thing it's another. It's 16 years old and got 220k on it and its been a good car so I can't complain. I just need to squeeze a bit more life out of it.

I wanted to post this so others would know what the solution was. I found so many people with the same problem as mine that posted asking for help but never posted the solution. It was frustrating! Thanks for the help.
Have you checked the inertia or (fuel pump cut off) switch? If not see owners manual. Did you have the battery disconnected while changing out the alternator?
Yes. It does not appear the inertia switch tripped. I wish it were that simple. The batter was disconnected when the alternator was replaced. It stayed off while I replaced the radiator. I have a P0192 code (fuel rail pressure sensor input low) and a P0113 Air Intake Temperature Sensor Input High (may have been due to having the air intake off to put fuel in the throttle body to get it started). The Check Engine light goes off during cranking and does not come on after cranking for 8-10 seconds. I was wondering if the crank shaft sensor might be messed up with oil and metal shavings. When there is no signal from that sensor it shuts off the fuel pump too. I am hoping to find a simpler and cheaper explanation than replacing the fuel pump module.
Hook up a fuel pressure test gauge and see just how much pressure it has! IF no pressure, check for battery voltage at the inertia switch, if battery voltage is present and switch is closed, not tripped, replace the pump!!! If no voltage at the switch, check fuses and EFI relay. Recheck your work, since it seems to be related.
Good luck with it.
I will do that when I am back in town next week. The rail seems to have ZERO pressure as far as i can tell, but did not have a gauge hooked up. I have looked into fuel pumps already but looking for a way to avoid replacing that if its not necessary, so these tests help. I am wondering where the fuses and EFI are located. I have no manual. If you know a good one let me know.

Not sure what I could have done wrong to have this be the result unless I knocked something loose somewhere. It was pretty straightforward.
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