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Q: engine wont warm up so heater wont heat cab on 1995 Ford Ranger

the engine runs fine but it wont warm up new thermostat new radiator
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You may want to check to see if the cooling fan is staying on constantly. It is possible that the engine is getting too much cooling.

Conversely, you could also have an air pocket in your cooling system that has not yet been purged. This is common after replacing a thermostat or radiator. Once you purge the air, you may have the heat you are seeking. Good luck.
i dont know anything about purgeing the air in the cooling system and maybe the shop i took it to doesnt either how do you do it purge the air i will call them and ask them if they did it if you can tell me how to do it thank you so much i will follow through on any idea you can come up with.again thanks
Basically, purging the air is allowing the coolant to circulate. Then the air pocket eventually comes to the top, you "burp" the cap on the reservoir and the air comes out, along with a bit of hot coolant (so use EXTREME caution not to burn yourself...). Fill the coolant level again, tighten the cap, run it longer, do the same thing...lets all the air out. Good luck...
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Don't these trucks have clutch fans, not electric cooling fans? Either way, checking the fan operation is a good start, and simple. Like Dave said, make sure the fan isn't operating with excessive airflow, whether it does have electric fans and they are constantly running, or the viscous clutch is seized up on a clutch fan. With a clutch fan, you should be able to, WITH THE ENGINE NOT RUNNING, NOT RUNNING, ENGINE OFF, move the fan blades by hand. if you can't turn the fan by hand, the you have a seized up clutch, and that would be a good place to start.
Is the engine really not warming up, or is this situation simply perceived? Is it possible that you have a faulty coolant temperature sending unit or gauge in the instrument cluster, and the lack of heat in the cab is a seperate situation? Having the ability to use an OBDI scan tool would definitely help settle that dispute, because you should be able to read the Engine Control Module's sensed coolant temperature. The sensor for the ECM is separate from the unit that controls the gauge on the dash.
More information on what is exactly going on would help, how many miles are on this vehicle? Why was the radiator replaced? When you removed the original radiator, was it really heavy, like there was a lot of sediment built up within it? Hope we get you going in the right direction, keep us posted.
the shop i took it to said they ran the engine with there computer readout apparatus reading the info to them and the hottest they could get it to go was something like 130 degrees the fan is working fine the heater is not clogged they pretty much checked everything its richeys tire factory on mill plaine blvd in vancouver they put a new sensor on the thermostat housing.i took it in because the thermostat was stuck closed and it heated up i put water in it and drove it to there shop told them the symptoms and they put a new radiator in and it still had the same problems so they changed out the thermostat and when i picked it up the heater worked i pulled out to there parking lot shut it off for a minute and started it back up and it quit working that fast.they worked on it 2 more times trying to figure it out and they say they went through everything and they cant figure it out.I'm feeling awfully cheated.i drove to work today in 30 degrees with no heat when it started out kind of a minor thing you know the thermostat.i paid them 415 dollars and its worse than it was can you help with this info thank you oh yeah the mechanic said he even pinched off the top radiator hose and that didnt even help to heat it up.its running fine aside from running cold it wont even reach the minimum line on the gauge it is running that cold ok guys we fixed the problem it was the water heater it was pumping enough water to keep the engine cold but not enough water to go through the heater all the teeth on the water pump were worn off but one and it was bent backwards and thats the reason it was able to pump at all hey guys thanks for your help and if i could buy you a drink i would but hey happy new year to you and keep the attitude you have its good to help each other thanks again see ya
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I don't mean to rain on your parade or anything, but from what I'm reading about the "fix", it doesn't make much sense. Firstly, I am in NO WAY saying that the guys over at Richeys tire factory are in any way wrong, you appear to have initially had an overheating problem and was low on coolant. This situation appears to have been rectified by them, but another problem appeared afterwards, it happens all the time, and was probably unforseeable until the obvious defects were repaired. The issue I'm having understanding here is you say there was a problem with the "water heater", did you mean water pump? If so, then you should most likely still have had an OVERheating problem, not an UNDERheating problem. 1 fin left on a water pump should not have been able to sufficiently circulate the coolant through the engine, radiator, heater core, just about everything. No coolant flow = no transfer of heat to the atmoshphere by way of the radiator, does this make sense? Just to repeat myself, I'm not saying those guys were wrong, and it seems like they didn't charge you again or I would imagine you would have stated that. I just want to completely and fully understand exactly what was done in order to resolve your issue, that's all. The main thing is your are happy with your repair, and will commuting around town comfortably and warm for the next several months!
This certainly is a hot topic. Good deal to get multiple opinions going.

First thing: Because the gauge is reading low AND you have no heat, we have every reason to think that the engine isn't getting to temperature.

And the only things that cause that are an improper thermostat (too cold), extreme air flow (sticking fan clutch...yes, this is a fan clutch, not an electric fan)...and that's really about it. Not much else will keep the engine from getting hot enough.

I am concerned about the diagnostic routine and the lack of proper diagnosis going forward with the shop in question. This is not a complicated issue.
I agree with Dave on these points. Unfortunately neither Dave nor myself were actually there doing the inspection, so all we have to go on is the information provided to us and our interpretation. It is possible that you left out what seemed to you as unimportant info, but in our world it could be the smoking gun. I will repeat what Dave has already said, this is not a complicated issue, or should we say, system?
Forgot to log in, Prestonfitz is the one in agreement with Dave as stated above.
i dont know which one of you guys mentioned something about not beng charged again i was but thats neither here nor there i dont expect anything for free but whatever you may think one fan blade was enough to cool the engine and not enough to run through the heater and yes i meant the water pump so learn from it
Did you put a thermostat rated at 195 degrees. I will bet your check engine light is on also. That's if someone hasn't pulled the bulb. I know what I'm talking about. I just worked on the same like truck. It had a code for low engine temp and it had no thermostat and no bulb in the cluster for the check engine light.
And your point is? Does the check engine light do a bulb check when you trun the key on. If so is your check engine light on? How do you know that the engine isn't at operating temp? contact me at
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