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2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Questions

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i REPLACED THE ECM AND NOW CODE P2127 SET AS A HARD CODE, NO OTHER CODES STORED OR IN HISTORY WITH KEY ON ENGINE OFF I READ DATA AND WHEN GAS PEDAL IS DEPRESSED READING FROM TPS APPEARS TO BE CORRECT.
Ok bought truck in September got a good deal so some quirks are expected.
Had it about a month and went to Miami about 90 miles into trip (straight from keys not many lights or stop and go) front right wheel well starts smoking so I figure caliper is locking up (figure it would need brakes) So been driving and it pulls a little and shakes just replaced front brakes yesterday pads rotors and calipers. The others were not in bad shape considering I thought caliper was bad and rotors warped. So I bleed the system and take for test ride loose pedal and brakes. Come back lift hood and radiator overflow seems to be cracked water all over??? Anyway rebleed rebleed and rebleed sytem get pedal up and hard and take for a drive to floor again and no brakes. So I go buy a mastercylinder install and bleed bleed and bleed again pedal nice and hard take for ride again pedal goes to floor and no brakes. No fluid leaking or anything ABS light not on and never has been
With a warm engine, my heater will blow cold air, then go back to blowing hot air. It will go back and forth the entire time I am driving. It seems like it spends more time on cold and less on hot. Thanks.
Recently, it has been taking about 8-10 seconds of cranking to start when engine is at outside air temp (approx 70 deg. F) ; also having repeated 15-20 seconds of cranking when engine temp is fully warm (approx 180 deg. F); no check engine lites or codes; have replaced fuel filter and low pressure fuel line. no air bubbles in line; I have a DTS that can do live data readings - if there is something specific I should be looking for. Thanks.
It started about a year or two ago ....cold start issues....over the last 2 years it has gotten worse...I've had the fuel transfer pump replaced this past week...it started....got home and woke to 50 degrees out side and did not start...brought it back to the mechanic and he replaced the #3 fuel injector..it fired straight up ....got home and the next morning Thanksgiving ...it started at 5:30..thought to my myself great....a couple hours later leaving the house it would NOT start...cranked over but not start...so I decided to replace a relay and the heater grid .....it did not turn over....any other ideas would be greatly appreciated .. thank you
replaced fuel lift pump and started without either 20 times or so but each start cranking took longer. Now back to using either. replaced fuel rail pressure sensor did not help
It doesn't matter taking the battery cables loose or sticking a computer to check it. Both lights stay on!
After running truck an shut off will not start. Will turn over but kills battery because it will not start until it cools down
After this my map lights came on. i took out the remote starter and seen that it was melted. The map lights will now not shut off. I had my truck scanned and it pulls no codes. I have turned the dimmer switch on and off, disconnected the battery, checked the fuses and none of this seems to be the problem. They even come on and flicker when I am driving. They are dim when flickering. Is there anyone else who has had this problem and is there a way to fix it?
The truck seems to be confused when in OD and keeps downshifting and up shifting rapidly. Since the change of the TPS it seems to loose power and go to dead pedal for brief moments. As i said this problem only shows up after the truck has been setting for several hours. i can drive to work in the morning and it has these issues but when i go to lunch four hours later the problem is not there. same for when i go home at 5 there is no problem till the next morning.
power steering fluid leaks out of screw in lines with o rings replaced o rings same problem .
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