2010 Dodge Ram 1500 Questions

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Low voltage light has been on for over a week off and on. Battery has been changed, alternator was checked and is good. The light went off after the battery change and then came back on the next day. Dealership said they can’t find any problems and reset the light. Yesterday it stalled out while backing up then the check engine light (code read p1614) and low voltage light came back on. Now the check engine light is off but the low voltage battery light is on and it acts like it doesn’t want to crank! Ther is full power in the cab!
When throttle is pressed to the floor truck will not kick down,Miles per gallon meter on dash- will go from 15 to 20 all the way to the right when I let off the throttle done change the fuel pump what could it be
I had my motor Replaced in October of last year. After installation, the mechanic told me that my AC cooling fan was not working. He said if you tapped on it it would come on but otherwise it would not. He said the AC would not work correctly without the AC cooling fan operating. It wasn't a big deal during the winter, but now I need my AC fixed. However, I cannot find an AC cooling fan. I have looked online and there is nothing there showing where the location.
Feels as if someone is hitting you from behind. It occurs almost overtime i brake or release brake pedal. Year 2014 to be exact
I turned the key to start the truck, heard a click, then dash lights flashed and clicked. I put the battery on a trickle charger for a few hours. Battery shows 12.91 charge while engine not started, but still wouldn't start. Dash indicator lights flash and click, and the key would not turn to the off position, allowing me to take it out of the ignition unless I disconnect the battery. Also, I heard an electrical hum until I disconnected the battery.
Just setting by itself it sometimes starts on it's own. This has happened twice in the last three days.The truck is a 2013 model the selection section did not go that high.
After truck would not start, but would turn, I was given advice to turn key to "on" and wait 3 seconds to prime fuel pump. This worked for about a month but, truck would start right away if I had recently driven within a couple hours. When that stopped working I dropped tank and replaced fuel pump. It started working again, but, only after priming the fuel pump every time and again has stopped starting after priming. Any advice? Am I burning up the fuel pump by priming every time?
Truck will run for a second if I use starter fluid in the big breather pipe.
Any advice? Thanks in advance
penstar V-6 I have 187,000 miles the problem just started. I have cleaned the throttle body which really wasn't bad but a did notice a little coating of clean oil inside ( on the intake side). Also brought to mech. to retrivie codes on his high code reader he said it probably needed the special spray cleaning of the whole intake that would lilkely last 40, 000 miles. it didn't last 15 mins of drive time. Any good advice out there? I don't want to just start chaning parts.
When to try and do my smog check and the computer is giving that message what's the drive cycle for catalyst and oxygen sensor monitor for a ram 2010
I want to replace the flasher because I have added LED lights to my turn signals a. Now they have the hyper Flash
Recently purchased a 2010 Ram 1500 Big Horn. Engine runs rough under low throttle at 1,500 RPM's. Under moderate/heavy throttle no problem, and at low throttle at higher RPM's no problem. Almost feels like it's in too low of a gear. Anyone with guidance on this would be appreciated. Thanks.
No heat blowing on driver side vent but is blowing on passenger side
DODGE RAM 1500 2015
Started happening 2 days ago. Blows heat out dash vents when on defrost. Blower comes on at different intervals.
Heat is blowing on passenger side, but cold air is blowing on driver side on 2010 Dodge Ram 1500
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