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2008 Dodge Magnum Questions

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32
questions

Took my car to a new shop near by because it was over heating.They said their was a broken head glass.Somehow they said the car wouldn't start at all on them after I had taken it in.They gave me 2 options.1 to sell the car / junk it. 2 to put a new motor.So I went with the new motor.Told me to give them $1000 to start on it cause they where gunna look for one,and so i did.Took them 2-3 weeks to get one.Called them multiple times and they said that it was gunna be done by next week.Its been almost 3 months without my car.Untop of that I took it in runing,just wanted them to check it out cause it had just started trying to over heat and I was concerned.And now it dosent even turn on.Thats why I'm asking if something normal or am I just over reacting.

Whenever I hit the gas my car has a rattling sound that sounds kinda like if you took a bicycle with spoke wheels and sound the tire and then stuck an aluminum can on the wheel......and since the rattling started once I hit the brakes the low oil pressure will come on and beep a time or two but when I check the oil level it's fine

bag got caught in lock now when I close will not open

the car will not start at all. is this expensive to fix and is it worth fixing

Valve guilds were broken what service needs to be done to repair this and can oy be repaired

I'm a little under 98K miles now. Quote for parts and labor was $1200. Is this necessary or how soon should I get changed?

When i turn on ac, it turn on normal under hood, but only heat blows out of vent.

Hello!
Just recently I purchased a 2008 Dodge Magnum 2.7L V6 (130,000 miles) with a ticking engine, speculating that it’s just the spark plugs or the coils. At the time of sale the engine had a p304 and p306 misfire codes. Thinking that the 4 other cylinders should be enough to get me back home, I drove off the lot and went on the highway. As I drove the car over the next couple miles, the car seemed to need more and more rpm’s in order to stay at the same speed. About 5 minutes into the drive (55mph) the vehicle stopped responding to the gas pedal and shutdown chugging (while the gas pedal was depressed), during that time I noticed the flashing check engine and a flashing oil light on the dash (yes there is oil in the engine). After pulling over I was not able to restart the car; no crank/no start. As you turn the key to the “ON” position all the gauges light up in addition to the headlights, interior lights, and the radio. But as you turn the key to start the vehicle you hear a click in the rear fuse box as well as a click from the engine, then all the interior/exterior lights flash once and were back to the regular “ON” mode. I’ve tried disconnecting the battery for a day to no avail, as well as getting a new battery. Just based on that I can rule out the alternator and the battery. Also the fuel pump is not at fault because I can hear it when the key is in “ON” position (also there is quarter tank of gas if that’s relevant).
What I think the problem could be:
-Starter: But why would it go bad in the first 5 miles of driving it? Started just fine at the pickup location.
-Crankshaft/Cam sensors: Again what are the chances that they will go bad after 5 miles of driving it?
-Fuses?
-Ignition Actuator pin? Seems like a common problem between changers but my magnum has a key fob instead of a key, so most likely not relevant.
-Some type of car security limp mode that prevents it from starting?
-Faulty key fob? Relating to starter and the sensors, probably wouldn’t go bad after 5 miles of driving. Also if the WCM did lock up it would temporarily reset after disconnecting the battery for a little bit.


Bottom line is the vehicle shutdown while in motion and won’t crank/start. If anyone has any ideas in regards to this matter, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Transmission shop says to wait till comes on and stays on in order to diag. Would a transmission general service to appropriate in order to perhaps fix problem prior to major transmission work?

I recently had the shop replace the water pump timing belt and crank gear (somehow was bent and rubbing metal on metal it was replaced and I was assured all was well inside the timing case because I was told the whine/roar was the belt or water pump failing after having the timing and water pump service done I replaced all 6 spark plugs all 6 coil packs all 4 O2 sensors and a MAF sensor on the top of the plenum along with the cam position sensor on the top front of the engine The car is still making the whine/roar sort of like a power steering whine but I had the serpentine belt changed and was told no power steering issue I would just like some input as to what this could be and if it sounds serious enough for me too stop driving it and maybe take to another shop mines out of town for the next two weeks!! ANY INPUT IS APPRECIATED!!!