Dead battery problem
2010 Honda CR-V

Dead Battery problem

(2010 Honda CR-V)
Oct/2010 I purchased a new CRV and I've had 5 episodes of having a Dead Battery. Honda Dealer tested the battey and finds it sound. Dealer said, maybe the trunk cargo area's light was left on if latch not closed tightly. First time this happened I had only had the CRV for 24 hrs. Please advise if anyone else had had this problem and how it was fixed. Next week, I'm to leave the CRV at the Dealers for a full day so they can run various tests.
7 answers & 4 comments
Popular Answer
on March 04, 2014
I've left my 2010 CRV with Honda and other mechanics for the same problem. After an $800 a/c condenser replacement and $300 in dead batteries, you've probably got an a/c condenser relay switch stuck in the OPEN position, so a $75 relay switch solved mine. The CRV's have a problem with the relay switch getting "stuck" in the open position, which makes your computer think the compressor is on, even when the car is off, so it blows your compressor AND drains your batteries. I could have avoided an $800 a/c condenser AND 4 new batteries if I had just replaced a $75 "stuck" relay switch. Honda never mentioned it. I found a new mechanic and it's the first thing he looked at and found it.
Sign in to reply
General Diagnosis
$88 - $111 Learn More
on March 04, 2014
I've left my 2010 CRV with Honda and other mechanics for the same problem. After an $800 a/c condenser replacement and $300 in dead batteries, you've probably got an a/c condenser relay switch stuck in the OPEN position, so a $75 relay switch solved mine. The CRV's have a problem with the relay switch getting "stuck" in the open position, which makes your computer think the compressor is on, even when the car is off, so it blows your compressor AND drains your batteries. I could have avoided an $800 a/c condenser AND 4 new batteries if I had just replaced a $75 "stuck" relay switch. Honda never mentioned it. I found a new mechanic and it's the first thing he looked at and found it.
Sign in to reply
on July 23, 2013
I have a 2010 Honda Civic, this morning the car was 100% dead, I even had to manually open the car door, had roadside give me a jump, ran for a bit okay, starting making a weird sound and died again so had it towed to Westwood Honda, long and short of it is, I have a defect in a small electrical rely related to my air conditioning unit, even though the car is off, behind the scenes the a/c is stuck in an “ON” mode and drained my battery. Tech said this is extremely rare to happen. Good news - car still under warranty and I should have my car back this afternoon. Perhaps this is your issue too.
Sign in to reply
on July 23, 2013
I see a common thread: HONDA. It doesn't seem to matter which model car you have, either. They love to blame it on things we are doing. But I turn off EVERYTHING before I leave the car: all the lights (interior) are permanently off. I turn off the a/c, the radio, I unplug either my GPS or my charger for my cell phone. I slam the back hatch to make sure it's not still open just the tiniest bit. I've been lucky now for about 2 months. Let's see how long this lasts. No More Hondas!
on February 06, 2011
Similar problem with my CR-V 2010, 3 times, 1st time
my dealer told me that it was my remote starter, I revove it = same problem. 3rd time they said that the alternator doesn't have enough time to charge the battery when I go to work (18 miles on highway for 35- 40 minutes??) Went to an other dealer they chect it and they have the same solution as the 1st dealer = I need a bigger battery but they can't pay for it even under warranty. Call Honda customer service they told me that according them the battery is OK and they don't pay for a bigger battery even if my car doesn't start when it's cold?!?!. According them the problem is the usage that I'm doing with the car !!!!
I will buy a new battery but not from Honda and I'm very dissapointed with their Customer service, that will be my last honda product.

Sign in to reply
on February 07, 2011
Thank you so much for sharing your situation.. This is the 5th Honda I've owned (all others were Accords - but I never had any problems) so I am very disappointed right now. I am going back to the dealer on Wednesday, for them to check the entire car system, but I did want to get feedback from other 2010 CRV owners. So this is helpful. My car is fully loaded with Navigation, blue tooth etc so perhaps this car does require a larger battery? How disapointing Honda Customer Service was not helpful to you! If and when I get this resolved, I will post it on Repair Pal.
on June 03, 2013
I bought a 2010 CR-V from a dealer,in March 2013. In those three months, the battery has gone dead three times. I KNOW I'm not leaving lights on in this car, and yet I'll go out and find lights on! It's definitely an electrical issue. This is my first AND LAST Honda. I am NOT impressed.
Sign in to reply
on February 03, 2011
Yes it sounds like you have an intermittent electrical drain, sometimes called a 'parasitic drain'. This is somewhat common, but not on any particular vehicles. Did the dealership give you a new battery, because if it is 'stone dead' it will never be quite as good as new. I have seen batteries go dead all by themselves, even brand new ones. If you let them sit over night, completely disconnected, they will be very weak by morning. A typical battery inspection will not catch this, but it does happen from time to time.
Sign in to reply
on February 04, 2011
The dealer did not give me a new battery and this is good information. Yes, the batter was stone dead each time. I had read of another Honda owner who had this problem and once he persoanlly purchased a new battery, the problem was fixed. My car is just 3 1/2 mos old, so is under warranty and I will insist on them givig me a new battery since this is the 5th time it's happened. Thank you.
on April 03, 2018
Solution for vehicles under warranty: Honda Canada change the defective battery after I call the road assist service 3 times in the same week cause the car was not starting (I was in holiday at that time) that cost them a lot more than a new battery... The 3rd time the road assist rep told me ''maybe your battery have a problem'', answer him that the dealer service inspect it and tell me that the battery and the electrical system is OK, and now I will call you each time that the car doesn't start... the rep ask me to go to a dealer of my choice to have a battery replacement, that I did and I never have any battery problem after that until I sell that honda
Sign in to reply
on September 18, 2016
I'm really confused people.... I've been reading complaint after complaint of this dead battery issue. Honda... being will aware of this issue is refusing to actually research the problem and come up with a solution for these electrical issues. I've recently bought a 2010 CR-V EX-L from a local dealership in San Jose CA. I was not told of the battery issue, and the car started every time I drove it, but it takes sometimes several days for the battery to go dead. Honda should be held liable for ALL repairs, no matter what year the vehicle was purchased. They've known of these problems and are not welling to step up to the plate and admit they have been using inferior components in their vehicles. agree or disagree I find it to be a bad hash mark against the manufacturer for not correcting the problem(s) and continuing to manufacture the same vehicles year after year with inherent problems.

My 2010 CR-V has three electrical problems:
1: The defective relay causing the Air Conditioner to stay active even after the ignition was switched off.
2. The drivers door Lock/Unlock switch is not functional, Passengers side is okay.
3. The 10A circuit that that controls the the Radio/Alarm System/Remote Locking mechanism is drawing over 560 milliamps of current continuously and has killed the battery several times. I did a quick-fix by removing the 10A fuse for this circuit and I modified a "Blown Fuse" by soldering wires to the terminals and connecting an external fuse in series with a switch to shut the circuit down when not in use. This will allow me to look at the schematic and attempt to figure out what the actual problem is without having to keep the battery on charge all the time.

I welcome your comments and if anyone out there has found anything that would help me figure out what the problem is, please let me know.

TotallyConfused
Sign in to reply
on April 03, 2018
Hi, just wondering have you ever got to the bottem of the 10amp fuse drawing power. I have one doing exactally the same.

Similar Questions

View answers to similar questions from RepairPal's community of auto experts and enthusiasts.
Recently, (about a month now), my vehicle has to sit for a while before it will restart. has a new battery, and no...
Truck having a hard time cranking the number i hold the inition down need truck i will eventually crank but it sounds...